On the way |
We didn't make any detailed plan for this journey. By the
time we tried to book tickets; Railways was about to show Regret flag.
Situation was not different with state run Karnataka or Kerala RTCs. So finally
I opted for a private bus and reserved three tickets. Bus was supposed to start
at 6.40 PM and reach Kottayam at 6.30 AM (next day).
For second part of this travelogue -> Destination Kottayam - Land of letters, lakes and latex - Two
For second part of this travelogue -> Destination Kottayam - Land of letters, lakes and latex - Two
We reached Travel Company’s office in Madiwala
(Bangalore) around 6.30 PM. However, bus was late by one hour. Travelling on Friday
evenings through the city will test your patience to the extreme level. Exodus
from Bangalore will create lengthy traffic blockades in all exit points,
especially on NH 7 - India's longest national highway. We too stuck there...
Bus was going really slow. Couple of hours after sunset
we crossed KR-TN border; sometime before sunrise we crossed TN-KL border as
well. One doesn’t have to see the place for identifying entry point to Kerala;
sudden change from smooth to hamper bumper journey would give you the clue :)
We left those portions and headed towards Thrissur. By morning we reached there
and continued our journey towards Ernakulum.
Crossing the bridge |
From Ernakulum onwards bus started hitting one traffic
block after another. I was sitting in second last seat. When I woke up in the
morning, we were very close to Ernakulum.
I looked around - everyone was sleeping. Rakesh was sleeping like a baby
on right side and Subeesh on the back seat. I slowly woke up and walk towards driver’s
cabin.
From there, view was interesting. Vehicles were moving
fast in that four lane road, Kochi Metro's work was going on, people were
waiting on the sheds for public buses. After travelling some more time in that
road, we took a turn towards MC (Main Central) road.
This 240 km long road was originally built by Raja
Kesavadas (then Dewan of Travancore). MC road starts from Kesavadasapuram (in
Thiruvananthapuram dist) and passes through Kilimanoor, Kottarakkara, Adoor,
Pandalam, Chengannur, Tiruvalla, Changanassery, Kottayam, Ettumanoor,
Kuravilangad, Koothattukulam, Muvattupuzha, Perumbavoor and finally rejoin NH
47 at Angamaly (in Ernakulum). Inauguration of a milk diary by ministers
created another round of blocks. By 11.30am we finally landed at Kottayam
Transport stand.
Our driver was from Tamilnadu and spoke in Tamil only. I
can understand Tamil to an extent, but can't speak beyond some words. Driver
was very much unhappy with the situation. He started telling me about the
problems one by one. Why government can't extend the road by atleast five feet
each on both sides? Why so much strikes? Industries are not there beyond Cochin
etc. Needless to say, I was not able to provide an answer for his questions as
I have little command over Tamil.
A view from the road |
However, let me share some thoughts here. It’s very
difficult to widen any roads in Kerala. Kerala is a very small state, lengthy
but narrow. I think the best way to move goods across the state is not through
roads but through ships and rails.
Population density is very much high in Kerala, because of this
authorities need to breakdown a lot of houses (Partially or fully) even to
extend the road by 10 or 20 feet on each side. Acquiring land is next to
impossible in Kerala, first of all that will turn out to be political hot
potato, secondly, most of these house owners will go to court to get a stay.
As far as industrialization is concerned; Kerala is a small
state with very high population density. Government don't have the luxury to
allocate hundreds of acres of land to industries. You may ask Singapore, Macau,
Hong Kong, Taiwan are smaller, than why not Kerala? Let me remember you that,
apart from having policy restrictions from Union Government, Keralities also
carry a big burden of leftist ideological baggage, which generally opposes anything
related to foreign investment. Forget about foreign investment, it is difficult
for these ideologies to digest even private investments. You can see it’s after
effects in Kochi international port, proposed port at Vizhinjam (Trivandrum), industrial
areas, ubiquities love for strikes, frightening the industry by showing union highhandedness
etc.
Kochi Metro Railway's work is going on |
Finally we reached Kottayam transport stand. After
searching for another 15 minutes we got a room in Ananda Bhavan Hotel - triple
bedroom for 650/day; 100 rupee/day for each extra person.
Our plan was something like this – visit Kumarakom,
Vembanadu Lake and Tannermukkam Bund on day one and attends the marriage on day
two.
Before going further let me tell you something about the
places we are going to visit.
For rest of the article, courtesy to Wikipedia's article on Kottayam.
Kottayam City
A view from Hotel, any one remember the movie Taken 2? |
Kottayam city - administrative capital of Kottayam district
in Kerala – is a major centre of spice and commercial crops trade; host to many
popular names in Kerala media industry - including but not limited to Malayala
Manorama, Deepika and Mangalam.
Before Travancore king Marthanda Varma annexed this area,
it was an independent kingdom known as Thekkumkoor. Kottayam enjoys a special
position in Kerala’s social movements - 1891's Malayali Memorial (for better
representation of local people in the Travancore civil services), 1930's
Abstention Movement (for representation of lower caste Hindus, Christians and
Muslims in Travancore Legislature), 1924's Vaikom Satyagraha against un-touchability
etc.
Kottyam also have good foot print in Indian's inland
water navigation system. Kottayam Port (Nattakom - near Kodimatha) is India's
first multi-modal Inland Container Depot (ICD). Kerala State Water Transport
Department (KSWTD) operates ferry services through the backwaters. These
services are probably the most economic way to enjoy the beauty of Lake System.
There are three jetties in Kottayam City - Town Jetty,
Kodimatha Jetty and Kumarakom Jetty. KSWTD connects Kottayam with Alappuzha
through the sides of “villages on either side of the canal, Large Lake Fields,
Chithira church built on lake bank, 'R' Block where Holland scheme Agriculture
is done, Lake Vembanadu, workes engaged in different jobs in lakes, Lamp post,
Manorama church, Round Lake, Finishing point of Nehru Trophy Boat Race".
For schedules, fare and other details, please visit - KSWTD.
Kumarakom
Near Kumarakom Jetty |
Kumarakom - well connected with Kottayam city - is a well
known tourist destination (rise into fame after then premier A.B.Vajpayee spent
his vacation there). Main focus is on Vembanad Lake and luxury house boats. People
visiting Kumarakom can also go to Kumarakom bird sanctuary and take rides in
canoes operated by local folk.
Two important things I need to mention, while talking
about Kumarakom is, British Missionary Alfred George Baker and Arundhati Roy’s
award winning book - 'The God of small things'. Baker’s Victorian model home
was later converted to a hotel by Taj group (Taj Garden Retreat). Non-vegetarians
can enjoy wide verity of fishes here, including but not limited to Karimeen
(Pearl spot), shrimp (Poovalan chemeen) etc.
Located some 8-10kms away from Kumarakom, bund (aka
Thannermukkom Salt Water Barrier) is a popular sunset view point.
Sunset, near to the bund |
Sajeev.
References
1. Kerala State Water Transport Department (KSWTD)
House Boats - With ac and with out ac are available |
An interesting journey |
Interesting journey, interesting indeed!
ReplyDeleteKollaam!