Chasing the Waves: An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Final day (Malpe Sea walk and more)

Links for all parts

An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Day 1

An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Day 2

An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Final day

Final day of the trip... that is effectively just half day. This was not the plan I had originally in mind. However, delayed train bookings changed everything; I had to choose slower Murdeshwar-SMVT express compared to faster and better timed Panchganga Express. 

Unless you are planning to explore Udupi in detail, two to three days are enough to explore Udupi-Malpe and nearby areas.

I woke up early in the morning and forced Divya, Niha, and Mom to wake up as well. We rushed outside to the beach to see the sunrise. After seeing the waves, I understood my stupidity — Udupi is on India’s western seaboard. Here, one can see the sunset in full grandeur, not the sunrise. However, all was not in vain. This gave us enough time to explore the beach visit Malpe sea-walk. We walked towards the giant metal box at one end of the beach. From day one, I have seen this unusual structure from a distance. Now it’s time to see from close. As per google maps, Malpe sea-walk is close to this building.

The beach was not that clean as we moved away from the main area frequented by travelers. Dog/animal poop showed up here and there. Occasionally the otherwise energizing nice odor of the sea gave way for a different flavor. We continued to walk, many times stepping on the empty outer shells, which crushed under the weight of my legs with a light but distinctive sound. Several boats were parked at one side as if they were taking sunbath. For a moment I wondered how those boats reached so far away from the sea. Yesterday we saw, that it was hard for for people to push the boat to sea manually against the waves. So it would be difficult for the tired fisherman (after a long day's work) to pull the boat that much away from water. I didn’t have to think much about how; further ahead a tractor was pulling another boat out of water and moving it upward. 

In google maps sea-walk looked closer. However, the beach almost ended short of that. So, we climbed up the stone wall at its narrow area to reach the road which runs parallel to the beach. There was a Hanuman temple facing the sea. We continued to walk, and finally understood what that giant metal box is - 'Udupi Cochin Shipyard Limited (UCSL)'. Cochin shipyard got control of the company via NCLT resolution. Now the company is building and servicing sea going boats. In their website, its mentioned that they also built the boats operated by Kochin Metro. Currently a big vessel is taking form in their workshop. 

At one side of this building is a parking lot, where vehicles coming to sea walk can park. We went inside the parking lot but didn’t see any option to reach the sea walk. So we enquired about it with a teenager who was doing some work there. I don't know what he understood; he pointed us towards the gate and asked us to go right. Did he think we were asking about Malpe fishing harbor? I don't know. Anyway, we started walking, went outside and took right and reached the next junction. Google map is saying that we are walking further away from that. At the other side of the road, there was an elderly person with a white beard seriously talking to another one that morning. He asked us to go back to the parking lot and the way to sea-walk starts at the other end of parking lot. We retraced our way and reached the same place and saw the garden area there. Crossing that we finally arrived at sea walk. We all were happy to reach the destination after the long walk in the morning. Niha was sleeping in my hands. She slept most of the time missing all the views.

Boats in the channel

Crossing the park which has a number of statues we reached the sea walk.  

What we have here is a small shipping channel protected on both sides by breakwaters extending to sea. Sea walk is a tiled walkway on one side of the breakwater; the other side is Padukere breakwater. Channel formed between these two breakwaters is absent of waves and makes it easier for vessels to go in and come out from fishing harbor which is located at the side of USCL. Ships built/serviced by USCL also can reach sea via this channel. While we started walking through the breakwater, one fishing boat was slowly sailing towards the wider ocean. Inside there were a number of people, some looked outside without any expressions while did some chores. I stood still and looked at her as she moved from the calmness of water channel towards the ever-lively sea.

Once the boat was out of sight, I continued to walk toward the other end of the walk. The tiled path ends a little short of the breakwater’s edge. Lot of options are there to sit anywhere along the breakwater and think about all we want. From here one can see the beach and nearby islands. Other than St. Mary’s Island, there are three more small islands. As the mercury level slowly started rising, we began our journey back to the hotel.

While heading to the sea walk, I called Gokul to check if he had woken up. He was getting ready and wanted to visit the Udupi temple in the morning. When they reached the temple, there wasn’t any queue. It seems the day we went was either an auspicious day or going early (he reached the temple an hour earlier than us) made all the difference.

There wasn’t much planned for the day. The train was in the afternoon. We checked out, had lunch, and suddenly Divya had this desire to buy something for Niha. So, we all walked along the beach road and reached the bus stop. A KSRTC bus was standing there. As it had become very hot, we went to a nearby shop and indulged in some ice cream. Mom, Niha, and I sat near a casuarina tree, looking around. Another man was also sitting nearby. He seemed to have come from somewhere else—not to enjoy the beach but without any intention of going anywhere either, as if frozen in time. He watched Niha for some time. She has this habit of putting two of her fingers in her mouth most of the time. We try to discourage her, but she persists. Seeing this, he mentioned that he used to have the same habit until he was ten, and his parents applied chili powder to his fingers to stop him. Well, chili powder does seem like an extreme measure, but breaking these habits is difficult.

Malpe sea-walk

Gokul, Divya, and Deepa disappeared into a shop further down the road. Since we hadn’t seen them for a long time, I got up and walked in that direction. They were on their way back, carrying several items for Niha and Akansha. Now it was time to say goodbye to Malpe. We took two autos and went to Udupi railway station. The mercury had no intention of coming down. Gokul tried to find the paid AC waiting room, but it was already full. Finally, Mom, Deepa, Niha, and Akanksha found some space in the other waiting room. Gokul stayed on the platform. Divya and I walked toward the other end of the platform and met several workers on their way to Mumbai. It seemed they had come to Udupi for work and were now heading back. Their train was running late.

Nothing eventful happened on the train. She spent a long time at Mangalore Central and drenched herself in rain. Unfortunately, by the time train reached Western Ghats there was hardly any light left. I stood close to the door and looked at the darkness outside. Time went on... After a while I noticed something strage a little ahead close to the rails - so many fireflies... but its neither moving nor blinking!!! How were they able to do that? When we got closer, the situation became clear. Those weren’t fireflies but people standing on the platform using the mobile's flash lights as there was no current. many were boarded from that stage and we moved on. 

The train groaned loudly as she navigated the sharp twists and turns. From the unsettling sounds and the way the bogies shifted at their joints, it felt as though they might come apart. After a while, train came to a halt in the middle of nowhere, waiting for something. I looked outside and noticed that we are about to enter a sharp curve. The train's front light illuminated the track ahead and water droplets falling in to it. I wish I had a drone now. This should have been a magnificent view from the top. thinking that, I returned to my berth and lay down. After some time, the train resumed her journey, her cries on the sharp curves stayed on my ears until sleep closed it. 

Sajeev

Chasing the Waves: An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Day 2 (Udupi temple and St. Mary's island)

Madhav sarovar - you can see the general queue at the other side

Links for all parts

An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Day 1

An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Day 2

An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Final day

Leaving Udupi without visiting the iconic Sreekrishna Temple is unthinkable. For visiting the temple, the early morning of an uneventful day is the best time. There will be less crowd, calmness, one can roam around the temple premises and also take a sneak peek at the excellent temple architecture. Each temple has its own story to tell, and so does the Udupi temple.

Path to sanctum

The temple is linked to the 13th-century saint Madhvacharya, who also founded the Dvaita school of Vedanta. According to mythology, the temple's idol of Lord Krishna was originally worshipped by Rukmini in Dwaraka. After being lost at sea for centuries, it was rediscovered by Madhvacharya in a miraculous event. He calmed a storm to save a ship near the Malpe coast, and as thanks, the ship's captain offered him a lump of sacred clay. Within the clay, Madhvacharya found the idol of a young Krishna holding a churning rod and rope, which he installed in Udupi. The Krishna idol here faces west, which is very rare.

Another famous story involves Kanakadasa, a poet-saint of a lower caste, who was barred from entering the temple. It is believed that his devotion moved Lord Krishna, and the temple wall miraculously cracked, opening a window known as Kanakana Kindi, through which Krishna blessed him. Even today, devotees view the idol through this window.

Udupi Sreekrishna temple

From an administrative viewpoint, the temple follows the Paryaya system, where eight monasteries take turns managing it every two years. Free meals are available here to all devotees.

Morning  

It’s not easy to wake up early in the morning when the previous day was spent traveling. However, it doesn’t make sense to come all the way here and sleep. Contradicting viewpoints indeed! Indecision cost us time, and finally, we decided to go to the temple. Divya and Niha stayed back, as they wanted to sleep for some more time. I called Gokul and Deepa, but they were also embraced by the lord of sleep. Finally, mom and I decided to go and walked towards the auto stand, which was not far. From there, the temple is around 8 km away. Even though it’s a bus route, buses are not frequent.

After a while, the auto driver dropped us near the temple gate, and we went inside. The first structure we came across was the Sreekrishna Math. This structure, I remember from my previous visit almost a decade ago. Next, we saw an endless queue. For a while, mom thought of going back to the hotel as it seemed difficult to get darshan anytime soon, and she hadn’t eaten.

We walked further and finally reached the front entrance. There was a small hope of having a special queue here, which could bypass the long queue for a fee. Nowadays, special queues are available in many famous temples. Some people are against this, as they consider paying an amount to make the darshan faster to be unfair. I don’t disagree that staying in the general queue to view the deity is the right way. However, when one is in a distant city and all you have is a couple of hours, this may be the best option. In some temples, this system is very straight forward; in others, they offer a costly pooja, and paying for it allows 4-5 people (the number varies by temple) a faster darshan. Maybe this is done so that everyone has some kind of feel-good factor. In most temples, whether you are in a special queue or a general queue, you might see the deity from the same distance (as both queues generally merge near the sanctum). However, in some temples, people in the special queue are allowed to go much closer to the deity.

When checked, the special queue seemed to be starting somewhere ahead. We climbed the steps and went to the first floor. Here, we could see the other end of the queue. Three or four people were carrying a pre-teen girl from the queue to outside. It looked like she had dizziness. Our queue slowly moved ahead, and there was a counter where a lady, probably in her late forties, was explaining to a group that doing annadan (I didnt hear the name clearly, but it was associated with 3-4 special darshan tickets) was more economical than paying individually for the special darshan queue. Well, we moved ahead and stopped at the counter for the special darshan and joined the new queue. This was also not short; there were a lot of people in the queue. We passed through a couple of wooden (made fully of wood but not decorated in any way) vestibules. After a long wait, we finally reached the sanctum, stayed there for some time, and then exited. After buying a couple of laddoos, we came out and explored nearby shops to buy some souvenirs. Later we slowly, we walked forward and reached the 'Math' again. Here, we visited two more temples.

Shri Chandramouleeshwara Temple

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this temple holds great historical and spiritual significance. According to mythology, the temple is associated with Chandra (the moon god), who is believed to have worshipped Lord Shiva here to be relieved of a curse. Pleased with his devotion, Shiva appeared in the form of a linga, which is now enshrined in the temple.

Anantheshwara Temple

Primarily a Shiva temple, it holds unique significance as a place where Lord Vishnu is also revered. It is considered one of the oldest temples in the region, predating the nearby Udupi Sri Krishna Temple. According to mythology, the temple was established by Parashurama, the sixth avatar of Lord Vishnu, after reclaiming the land of coastal Karnataka from the sea.

St. Mary’s Island  

Post-lunch, it was time to visit St. Mary’s Island. I had visited the island when I was in Udupi last time. However, it was not from the beach but from Malpe fishing harbor. Divya had also visited the island during her previous role as a college lecturer. For the rest, it was their first time. Gokul bought the tickets, and we stood in a temporary queue around 2-3 in the afternoon. Finally, our boat came, and people boarded.

The challenge was that there is no jetty here, and the sea is very shallow. You might wonder how on earth they would push this boat into the sea with so many passengers and waves. Certainly, Yamaha's renowned engine cannot operate on sand! Well, they used the ancient method: employing several people to manually push the boat into the sea. However, there was a problem—the boat had more than enough people. It seemed to exceed the safe number recommended for a boat of that size. The organizers came inside and asked some visibly overweight passengers to disembark temporarily. Then, the manual laborers resumed pushing the boat. Finally, the boat moved further into the sea, the engines started, and we sailed towards the island, leaving the beautiful Malpe Beach behind.

These are a group of four small islands known for their unique hexagonal basalt rock formations, created by volcanic activity millions of years ago. Legend says Vasco da Gama stopped here in 1498 before reaching Kerala and named the islands after St. Mary. The island is not yet commercialized apart from boat rides, so remember to carry enough water and snacks.

St. Mary's island

We got down at one end and walked towards the other, along a shell-laden path. I spent time photographing the unique rock formations, while my mom hesitated to go further. Divya mostly roamed around with Niha, and Gokul tried to invent new jokes along the way. Many areas I visited during my previous trip were now off-limits to tourists, marked with red flags.

We took the last boat back to Malpe, walked through the crowd, and reached a restaurant for refreshments. After resting briefly at the hotel restaurant, we returned to the beach road. Along the way, we stopped at roadside shacks for snacks like potato twisters and juices. Since it was Diwali, there were dance and music programs organized. After dinner, everyone returned to their rooms, while I walked toward the sea. I watched some performances on stage for about 10-20 minutes before spending an unknown amount of time by the sea.

Hexagonal rock structures

Potato twister

Looking back...

Gokul and Deepa enjoying the sunshine

Sajeev

Chasing the Waves: An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Day 1

Links for all parts

An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Day 1

An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Day 2

An Unforgettable Escape to Malpe Beach - Final day

Oceans have always fascinated me. While I saw mountains every day until the end of my teenage years, I never saw the sea. I was intrigued by beaches where waves never stop rolling in; islands surrounded by water on all sides; ships which transports goods from ancient times; and mighty European sea powers which brought in so much wealth from their colonies. 

For me, the sea was an elusive marvel; for New Delhi, though, it might have been the opposite. Despite India’s vast coastline and proximity to international shipping routes; despite a rich history of maritime trade; independent India hasn’t truly embraced the idea of becoming an ocean power. Perhaps having the capital located hundreds of kilometers from the coast hasn’t helped.

Bangalore, too, isn’t a city where you can easily reach the sea. Located in the center of southern Deccan, the closest popular beach to Bangalore is probably Pondicherry Beach, and that’s over 300 kilometers away.

When planning a trip to celebrate my daughter’s first birthday, Malpe Beach in Udupi came to mind. However, the heavy downpour at that time of year made it difficult, so we rescheduled for the end of October, aligning with Diwali and Kannada Rajyotsava holidays. I was returning to Malpe after more than a decade. Last time, it was a solo journey; this time our entire family plus, Gokul and his family (Deepa and Akanksha) joined us. We had planned to book the Vista-dome train, but I was late rebooking, and all Vista dome seats were taken, so we switched to another, slower train.

On Diwali evening, we met at Bangalore city station. This station was originally called South Bangalore City (station code as SBC). Later, the name was changed to 'Bangalore City', then to 'Bengaluru City' and finally to 'KSR Bengaluru' couple of years back. The area near the place is called 'Majestic'. This came from a popular cinema theater of the same name once located there. The Uber driver dropped me off at the station’s back entrance and I slowly walked to the fifth platform. It was fully crowded, some eagerly looking at the tracks for train to come; couple of fathers playing with their kids, others glued to their phones, and a few staring aimlessly, as if searching for something profound. There wasn't many who were laughing. Looks like people are slowly forgetting to laugh.

Finally, the train arrived, and we settled in. Since I’d booked late, we got all middle and upper seats—far from ideal for two new mothers with one year old kid, let alone a seventy-year-old lady needing to climb. Fortunately, one guy didn't show up and another one shifted to upper berth. Alanksha, Gokul and Deepa’s daughter, was full of energy. She wanted to go to upper berth to be with her mother. The moment she reach there, she started crying for coming to her father's side(who is in lower). So Gokul take her to ground, now she will start crying to reach the upper berth. This activity repeated many times. Although this exercise provided Gokul with plenty of exercise, it was not reflected in his waistline. Fortunately, my little one stayed where she is. I silently prayed that she should not to cry till we reach Udupi!!!

I rarely sleep before midnight, but that night I fell asleep around ten thirty. By morning, light started creeping in to the compartment, waking me. I went to the door to see where we were. The train was an old metallic box, painted in a shade of yellow color, with a 72-seat configuration per bogie. I wonder why this color? can't it be something better? Outside, the trees glistened with mist and rainwater—a lush, misty landscape still miles away from the Subrahmanya Road station (SBHR) on the Hassan-Mangalore route. This is one of my favorite route, especially the stretch between Sakleshpur and Subrahmanya Road (a two-and-a-half-hour journey over 45 kilometers). After a while, we reached Subrahmanya Road, where temple-goers disembarked. We continued, crossed the mighty Netravati and reached Mangalore (a major port city in India's western coast). 

With a longer stop at Mangalore Central(10 minutes official and many more unofficial), we grabbed idli-vada for breakfast, and Gokul stocked up on onion samosas... There was nothing much to do other than either sitting in the seat or just walking up and down under hot sun in uncovered platform. Finally train started and started our journey through famed Konkan rail.

India’s western coast can be divided into three sections:

1. The Kutch and Kathiawar region with the Gujarat plains to the north.

2. The Konkan and Canara coast - Konkan stretches from the Daman Ganga River in the north to the Gangavalli River in the south; while Canara (or Karavali) goes from the Gangavalli river in the north to the Chandragiri River.

3. The Malabar Coast - Starting south of Goa and extending to Kanyakumari, includes the Canara Coast in historical context.

Most of the west coast, from south of Mumbai to Kanyakumari, has similar geography: a narrow strip between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea, blessed by the southwest monsoon and dotted with fast-flowing rivers. If you stay in anywhere in the western coast, then you won't find much difference (as far as geography is concerned) if you move to anywhere else in the coast. I spent some time standing by the train door, taking in the vibrant coastal landscape. Around noon, we finally reached Udupi, where two prepaid autos took us to our seaside hotel, ready for lunch.

At Malpe beach

After lunch, we strolled down to the beach, which was bustling with holiday crowds for Diwali and Karnataka Rajyotsava. Malpe Beach offers a range of activities for travelers — parasailing, banana boat rides, speed board rides, zorbing,  trips to St. Mary’s Island, and a sea walk along the fishing harbor’s breakwater.

The beach was relatively clean, with only a few scattered plastic bottles. Considering the holiday crowd, litter was minimal (probably due to regular cleanups). The beach road runs parallel, from Gandhi statue to Cochin Shipyard building. On the side there are two Paradise resort restaurants (with bar), probably one other restaurants, and numerous snack stalls selling sugarcane juice, spicy potato twists, sweet corn, ice cream, juices and chats. Near Gandhi statue, one can see a number of shops for tattooing; shops selling kids’ play items, and T-shirts, beach hats etc. Parking is ample, and for those looking for a drink, Paradise Resort has bars attached to two of their restaurants (not much other options for main dining), along with a few other options near Gandhi statue.

Finally, standing by the waves, I felt the ocean’s attraction pull once more. My daughter toddled happily in the sand, beach with endless horizon seemed the perfect place to celebrate. Rolling waves force was too strong for her little legs, so she stayed closer to shore. After a while, she wandered to the firm wet sand and found an empty ice cream cup let by someone. Her mother tossed it a bit further away, and our daughter gleefully toddled after it. Each toss led to another chase, and her laughter filled the air. Soaked in saltwater and sandy from play, we eventually pulled her out and walked towards hotel. By this time, sun was on his last leg of the day and about to start filling the western sky with his orange color - bidding farewell for one more day.

Niha walking in the water

Akanksha curiously looking at her hand

Arabian sea at night

As night fell and the beach grew darker, I found myself drawn back to the lively shoreline. A vibrant scene awaited on one end, with lights and sounds pulling me closer. I walked toward it, discovering an activity area bustling with energy. An automated bowling machine had been set up within a cricket net — participants could try their hand at batting. It seemed like the bowling speed could be adjusted, and the first player I saw had opted for fast-paced balls, swinging and missing often. His friend chose a slower setting, finding more success with it. After a while I moved on to see a children’s slide nearby, where young ones were gleefully sliding down, going back and then repeat... Each seemed perfectly lost in the moment, free from worldly worries. Next to them, a small group of kids bounced on a trampoline, while another, a 'bungee trampolin', remained unoccupied. Soon I found myself moving towards rolling waves, and glow of street lamps faded in the distance.

Standing close to the water, I watched as waves tirelessly redrew white line in air - couple of feets above the ground. There was a certain calmness hidden within the ocean’s restless rhythm. Up in the sky, a few lanterns drifted, lit by their last bit of fuel. Some people nearby were lighting these lanterns and releasing them into sky. Though beautiful to watch, once their fuel ran out, they would descend to the sea below, adding to the pollution. I wondered if they were biodegradable, though it seemed unlikely.

After a few quiet moments, I heard Gokul call out. He, Deepa, and Akanksha had arrived for a nighttime stroll. I headed back toward the crowd, catching up them and after a few minutes of chit chat I turned once more to the ocean. Gazing into the endless horizon, I began walking southward. In the moonlit waters, I noticed a pair of figures moving with the waves — two girls in black dresses, dancing laughing with joy. The waves keep on coming and the night grew older, and I, at last, headed back to our room, ready rest and waiting for a new day.

Sajeev

Elections, News, and the Never-Ending Circus of Religion and "Relevance" in Indian Media

India just witnessed a massive general election, and now Maharashtra and Jharkhand are ging to polls. Number of people participating in the mammoth exercise is staggering: around 12.23 crore (122.3 million) people are gearing up to vote in these two states alone. For perspective, that's twice the eligible voting population of Germany. As if that’s not enough, various constituencies from couple of other states are also headed for polls. But hold on, what exactly are these voters aspiring for? What’s going through their minds as they head to the booths?

Decades ago, political promises like roti, kapada, makan (food, clothing, and shelter) resonated well with them. Then came - mandal, mandir and masjid politics; later it was India shining based on the economic improvements as political slogan.  Fast-forward to today, and what matters? Well, if we go by the coverage on our major news channels, they’re essentially telling us that voters only care about… Hindu-Muslim conflicts.

Now, I’m no stranger to the daily dose of election news. At work, I pass through the pantry a few times a day, where two massive screens blast a popular Indian news channel in English. Over time, I’ve noticed a few “interesting” patterns in their current coverage of elections. Here’s a rundown:

1. Assembly elections are happening Maharashtra, Jharkhand is a kind of also ran  

   Sure, Jharkhand is also voting, but blink, and you’d miss it. Apparently, Jharkhand’s polling hardly merits a mention. It’s as if the state is merely a blip on the map-there, but not really “there.”

2. Mumbai = Maharashtra

   For the news channel, Maharashtra essentially boils down to the Mumbai metropolitan area. You’d think the other 34 districts of Maharashtra are barren wastelands, devoid of voters, or, heaven forbid, issues. It’s all about Mumbai, folks, because why cover the majority of the state when you have a glitzy metro to focus on?

3. Priyanka Gandhi in Wayanad makes the cut, sometimes  

   The sole exception to this myopic coverage? Wayanad. Why? Because Priyanka Gandhi is contesting there, in a seat previously held by her brother. Yes, this loksabha seat of Kerala, vacated by Rahul Gandhi, somehow finds a rare mention. 

4. Everything is a Hindu-Muslim problem 

   Every. Single. Issue. This is the baseline conclusion from watching the coverage. As far as these channels are concerned, voters have no other problems. No concerns about jobs, inflation, or healthcare—just the ever-present Hindu-Muslim issue looming over their heads.

5. Opinions from the Same faces, 24/7  

   Instead of giving airtime to actual candidates with stakes in these elections, we get an endless parade of party spokespeople talking in circles. Why interview people who are actually running in the election when you can have talking heads on repeat?

6. Balancing on bubbles of religion

   Got a minor, unrelated issue? Inflate it into a Hindu-Muslim conflict (or a Congress-BJP issue), and voila, you have hours of engaging prime-time debate. Remember, every tiny issue is just one twisted angle away from becoming a religious (Congress-BJP)) flashpoint.

7. Pointless religious debates round the clock  

   Late-night debates mean one thing: pulling in politicians to argue aimlessly about religion. No mention of critical issues like food security, inflation, or education. Because, really, who cares about those, right?

In the world according to this channel, Indians apparently live, breathe, and, yes, eat religion. They wake up to it, inhale it with their morning chai, and take it to bed. Issues like inflation, healthcare, or entrepreneurial opportunities? Mere background noise. Don’t worry if you’re going to bed hungry, can’t afford a doctor, or can’t get a loan to start a business. These things just don’t sell airtime like a good old-fashioned religious debate.

A wake-up call to national news (a.k.a entertainment?) channels

So, for those who claim to run “national” news channels, here are a few pointers I would like to mention,

1. India exists beyond Delhi and Mumbai

   Yes, there are actual voters in places other than New Delhi’s vicinity or Mumbai’s city limits.

2. People can’t eat religion  

   Contrary to popular belief, people don’t survive on religion alone. They have needs—needs that are probably a tad more important.

3. Voters outside metro cities exist, Too  

   Every Indian voter, whether they’re in a big city or a remote village, deserves equal coverage and concern.

4. Economy, environment, healthcare, and more—they are real issues 

   These topics exist. Really. The economy, climate change, hunger, and public health are all part of the complex fabric of people’s lives.

5. Studio debates don’t solve real problems

   Screaming matches from the comfort of a well-lit studio don’t exactly equate to problem-solving for the average citizen.

6. Experts do exist outside political circles  

   Ever considered inviting subject matter experts to talk about these issues? Some of us would appreciate a dose of informed opinion.

This obsession with religion and politics will only go so far. Sooner or later, viewers might just decide they’ve had enough and switch to something a little more, shall we say, relevant?

Sajeev

Book of life - 6

Today marks the completion of the second month of this year; a good time to reflect on the progress of this year's New Year resolutions.

I often heard, one can get motivated by an inspirational story, a book, an incident etc. and get a transformative life experience. While I concur with the former; I would like to disagree with the latter. Despite the wide spread belief, perpetuated through countless biographies and movies, that one profound encounter can create a radical shift, my observations over time have led me to a different conclusion. I think if a single incident transformed everything in a person's life, then its an exception rather than a rule. People typically do not undergo a sudden transformation of their core beliefs simply because someone imparts a compelling message. There needs to be a sustained momentum. 

For e.g. I can watch a motivational movie like 'Rudy' n number of times and still persist in my established ways. I can read 'The Alchemist' cover to cover, enjoy the feel good factor for sometime, and then back to my normal ways. Even bad experience, don't bring in 360 degree transformation. Change, in my view, is not the consequence of a single impactful event but arises from sustained efforts comprising countless endeavors. The reason for this argument is tied to the New Year resolutions I took over past fourteen years. My friend Gokul often jests about my new year pledges and the struggles to hold it over coming months. Earlier, I broke many of these pledges within weeks of taking it; but I was very reluctant to agree on the same. Often I came up with wired justifications that, its not broken. 

Does New Year pledges hold intrinsic value? Can we truly improve ourselves by adhering to principles or embracing a motivational lifestyle? Certainly, but the transformative journey is seldom instantaneous, like the clock strikes midnight and new day starts. Change is a demanding process that necessitates passion, patience, and an incremental approach. Altering habits, for instance, is more effectively achieved through gradual progress, recognizing that setbacks may occur, requiring a restart, but each attempt positions us in a better place.

Reflecting on past years, I may successfully followed a couple of pledges; but rest all are broken at one point of other. However, it's crucial to emphasize that even in instances of perceived failure, New Year pledges did make some improvements in life. Therefore, my advice is to strive for a 100% adherence to your pledges, but if broken, don't be disheartened – you're still in a better place than where you began.

Sajeev

Biyyam Kayal Ponnani - For a beautiful evening

Regulator

Despite its proximity to Palakkad, I didn't explore much of Malappuram. While Nilambur was on my radar, my knowledge of other hidden gems was limited. I spent a lot of time in google maps extensively looking for places around and even in distant lands; yet, for some reason, overlooked this adjacent district. It wasn't until I spent a couple of weeks at my wife's home during her pregnancy that I delved into the intricate details of Malappuram. This period of exploration revealed enchanting spots such as the Padinjarekkara beach, Canoli canal, Chamravattom bridge, Ponnai fishing harbor, Karma road, and the captivating Biyyam Lagoon, locally known as Biyyam Kayal.

Regulator-cum-bridge

Evening view

This a length lagoon and it offers multiple viewpoints. However, I visited two main attractions: a regulator cum bridge and a suspension bridge, both conveniently accessible from NH66. The Biyyam Kayal Park is situated approximately 6 km from Ponnai and is equidistant from Edappal.

This historic regulator-cum-bridge serves as a crucial connection over the narrow expanse of the kayal. It stands as a testament to old craftsmanship and is easily accessible by bike or car, drawing mostly locals as visitors. Adjacent to the regulator, there is a small but nice park. During my evening visit, after parking my bike at one end, I traversed the vintage regulator, arriving at the opposite end at the park. Many people were sitting alone talking to in phone hardly cared about anything happening nearby!!! While in other areas, groups engaged in lively discussions and snacks. A common sight was at least one person in each group capturing photos or recording videos. While coming back, I used the associated bridge with blacktop. A couple of guys, both young and old, were engrossed in fishing. I lingered, observing the process – some got fish, while others, kept on trying their luck.

Associated bridge

View from top of the regulator

Slowly its becoming evening, after watching the sunset from the bridge, I call it as a day and went back. 

Biyyam suspension bridge

Good space for parking, walking and sitting at the side of the lagoon

Suspension bridge across the lagoon

Located approximately 8 km from Edappal and 4 km from Ponnani town, this narrow suspension bridge is a skeleton of her beautiful past. Similar structures span various rivers in this part of Kerala, with Kunthipuzha also featuring one or more of these bridges. Unfortunately, the common issue lies in the lack of maintenance, as those who initially construct these bridges often receive credit but seldom return for upkeep.

I, me, myself

The condition of this particular bridge raises concerns about safety, and one need to be careful while walking. Despite its worn appearance, I ascended the rustic steps and strolled towards the opposite end. Upon reaching the far side, made a U-turn, and retraced my steps. While lingering in the middle, I savored the scenic view of the beautiful and calm lake. This location also witness annual boat races. After a while, I returned to the parking area, where well-tiled spaces allowed for a serene evening experience, and sat there for some time. 

Sajeev.

Walking in the park

Ooty - visiting the summer capital in monsoon

Karnataka state garden at Ooty

This marks my second trip to Ooty, the summer capital of the erstwhile Madras Presidency. Ooty, along with Kodaikanal, holds significant sentimental value for many. Decades ago, these two destinations were the most sought after honeymoon spots for a considerable number of Keralites. College life was not complete without a tour to these two locations. Even now, many college tours include a stop at Kodaikanal.

During the era of Raj, Ooty served as a major hub for British, offering a climate reminiscent of their native surroundings. The headquarters of the Madras Regiment, then and now, is situated a short distance away from Ooty, in a place called Wellington.

Flowers

We arrived in Ooty in the afternoon and checked into the TTDC hotel. Mom and aunt settled into their room, while Divya and I set out on foot to explore the city. Covering various central areas of Ooty by walking, we immersed ourselves in the local ambiance. After navigating through multiple streets, we eventually reached the Tibetan market situated in front of the Government Botanical Garden by evening. Deciding to call it a day, we strolled back to the hotel, taking the opportunity to explore the snack stores along the way. Despite not coming across much street food on the roads, perhaps due to it being a Sunday, we were determined not to miss out. Chilli-bajji and couple of other items were really tasty.

Next day morning, after breakfast, we started towards our first destination. 

Nilgiri Mountain Railway

Inside toy train

This is a meter-gauge railway, operated by the Southern Railway, stands as a testament to British engineering from the first decade of the twentieth century. It connects Mettupalayam with Ooty (Udagamandalam), traversing picturesque landscapes. Notably, this rail line features a rack system – a set of toothed rails positioned between the tracks, facilitating the train's ascent up steep inclines. Presently, it may be the sole railway line in India which use rack system. Alongside the Darjeeling Mountain Railway, this rail line also shares the distinction of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A crucial tip for those who look forward for this unique rail journey: it's important to book tickets in advance through IRCTC or arrive very early at the station for on-the-spot bookings. Failure to do so might result in an extended wait or, worse, missing out on the journey altogether. Arriving later in the morning, I managed to secure a ticket but had to undergo a long wait for my train's arrival. To utilize the time, we decided to explore other nearby destinations while keeping an eye on the ticking clock.

Ketti station

Ooty lake and boathouse

Ooty lake

Our initial destination was the scenic Ooty Lake. We were not sure about taking a boat ride due to persistent rain; so we parked at the boat house and wandered around, exploring our options. Fortunately, the rain eventually lose the moment and a small window opened up. We booked a boat for 7 people as that was the only one available. Fortunately a newly married Bengali couple joined us, bringing the total to six. By the time we reached half way, rain again strengthened but it only enhanced the overall ambiance and made that journey very memorable.

Karnataka State garden

Karnataka state garden

Following the boat ride, our next stop was the Karnataka State Garden. With the persistent rain discouraged many visitors, but it helped to maintain a serene atmosphere with relatively fewer people. Eager to explore despite the weather, we briskly moved from one point to another, seeking refuge under trees and other sheltered spots. Among all the places we visited in Coonoor and Ooty, this garden stood out as my favorite—a meticulously maintained place which offered a visually appealing respite. Our stroll through the garden eventually led us to a restaurant, where a steaming cup of hot tea became a comforting bliss in the cold, wet atmosphere. The rain persisted, but we were undeterred and continue our walk; this time heading to the opposite end of the park. Keeping a watchful eye on the clock, as our train departure time approached, we had to forgo many attractions and swiftly exited the garden, and drove towards the Ooty railway station.

Mountain railway to Ketti and back

From the window

We arrived a bit ahead of the schedule. While aimlessly walking through the platform found a small yet impressive rail museum and the time there was indeed well spent. It's a good way to explore the centuries-old metal structures if you find yourself with some time at the station

Finally our ride came, a picture from the past, our colonial era blue ride. As the train commenced its journey, the rhythmic sounds echoed, and I, seated by the window, embraced the opportunity to enjoy the monsoon socked valleys outside. Raindrops hung delicately from leaves, gracefully descending towards the earth as if to attach salvation. 

Passing through Lovedale, we reached our destination - Ketti. Although I knew little about Ketti when booked the tickets, I hoped for a quick return train. Ketti, though beautiful, seemed almost untouched by passengers disembarking or boarding. Initially, the railway staff mentioned they couldn't issue tickets immediately, insisting they needed to assess the incoming train first. Surveying the station, I noticed a road meandering around one side, devoid of bus stops or taxis. Sitting, standing, walking we spent some more time and finally they issues the tickets for four and soon the train arrived. This time, there were only a handful of passengers on the train, allowing us to occupy any seats we wanted to comfortably view the scenery. Passing through valleys, vast grounds, and tunnels, we eventually arrived at Ooty station. After talking couple of photos in front of "I love Ooty" sign in the station we left the place.

Pykara Falls and Dam

An interesting walkway

Nice view

After lunch, we embarked on our journey to the furthest destination – Pykara falls and dam. As we traversed the road, old memories came back. It was on this stretch, about 15-20 km further in the Gudalur direction, my bike hit head on with SETC bus going to Pollachi. The impact was so severe that I flew in the air and fell down on the road breaking right hand and left leg. Since I had good helmet; steel elbow and knee guard nothing else happened. Whenever you drove via express highways or mountain stretches always use helmet; and good quality elbow and knee guard along with a good crash guard.

Setting aside the haunting memories, I refocused on the road ahead. Enveloped in the earthy scent of fresh rain, the surroundings exuded a distinct vitality. The atmosphere, cleansed by the recent and still ongoing downpour, carried a refreshing fragrance. Eventually, we reached a point on the highway close to the falls and started our walk towards the falls. The waterfall, though small, was good. After looking at the slow moving shallow water for a while, we started walking back to the main road. This region is teeming with monkeys, so it's advisable to be cautious with any food items in hand. If possible, keep them concealed. Next on the list was Wenlock Downs.

Wenlock downs - shooting point

I've always been drawn to the allure of grasslands, envisioning endless walks through damp grass and hours spent lounging amidst the green expanse. We crossed this pace while going to the dam; then thought of coming here while going back to hotel. Unfortunately, by the time we reached the spot, everyone was tired and the idea of a leisurely stroll seemed a bit too much. Regrettably, I had to forgo the visit this time. That being said, it tops the list for my next trip.

Pine forest

Further ahead we saw the pine forest. However, the story remained the same. Everyone was very tired to get down from the vehicle and walk in the light drizzle. One more place for the next trip. 

Chocolate factory

Ooty chocolates are famous in the region, making them a must-buy for anyone visiting. Following suit, I purchased a few packets from a roadside shop. While I personally didn't find anything particularly exceptional about these chocolates, it seems almost customary for visitors to buy them as a souvenir for friends and family.

Returning to the hotel, the evening concluded with dinner and a well-deserved night's sleep. The following morning marked our visit to the last destination on our list—the Ooty Botanical Garden.

Ooty Botanical Garden

Despite mechanically exploring from one point to another after purchasing tickets, the garden left something to be desired. Although a few spots held appeal, the overall experience fell short. With this, our return journey commenced, this time with the plan to re-enter Kerala via the Mulli check post.

Emerald Lake and Dam

At the top

Our final stop on the trip was this dam, situated about 23 km away from the Government Botanical Garden. The journey, marked by numerous turns, felt like a long trip. Eventually, we reached the base of the dam, where a narrow but well-maintained concrete road led us to the top. We parked our car near by and walk towards the dam.

Surprisingly, there were no restrictions on entering the dam structure, and with hardly anyone around—locals or tourists—we had the freedom to explore at our own pace. Walking back and forth, we took our time to look at the crest gates and the expansive lake behind this huge structure. Notably, Avalanche Dam is adjacent to Emerald Dam, separated only by a road. Even though we didn't try, I think one can walk a kilometer and reach that separation road.

This region boasts an abundance of dams and lakes, with Pykara Dam, Mukruti Dam, Porthimund Dam, Parsons Valley Lake, Sandynulla Lake, Glenmorgan Dam, Ooty Lake, Avalanche Lake, and Emerald Dam being the main highlights.

As the rain intensified, we bid farewell to Emerald Dam and resumed our return journey, passing through Avilanji, Gandhikandi, Yedakadu, Kundah Dam, Manjoor, and navigating through numerous hairpin bends. Finally, by noon, we reached the Mulli Forest Check Post on the Tamil Nadu side. So far good, from here all the problems started. 

Mulli TN forest check post

We reached at the Tamil Nadu side of border forest check post. After that there is a short dirt road and then comes Kerala border check post. However, the forest guard stationed there denied us passage, asserting that three cars, had not been signed at the Geddai Dam power plant check post. I recalled seeing this check post, but it was open and unguarded then, so we didn't stop. The car in front of us was also unaware and reached this point without signing a column in notbook. The guard insisted we all go back and sign at the other check post, located about 15 km uphill. Despite our attempts to reason with him, he adamantly pushed for us to return, threatening legal consequences. 

He also mentioned even Salman khan was not able to escape from a wild life/forest case. Its another matter than more than forest department Bishnoi community strongly stood behind blackbuck hunting case as it was a sacred animal for them. But, I don’t know how its relevant here. We were hungry and its noon. If we leave now, we reach Mannarkkad at lunch time. Finally I took a U-turn and drove towards Canada Power plant check post. This time we did see a guard and this time he want us to go all the way back. Which means I need to drive all the way to Glendale (near Coonoor) then use Mettupalayam - Coimbatore - Palakkad - Mannakkad route. I was shocked, it’s a tonne of hairpins and very long wayl!!!

As per him Mulli road is closed and we are not supposed to go via that road. Laster I found out that the road is indeed closed for private transport by order from TN forest department some time back. But all the way till Mulli no one stopped us or diverted us. We even saw a police vehicle while coming to Manjoor. On the ground it was not like that they stopped the traffic completely. While I was going uphill a lot of private cars having Kerala registration were coming in the opposite direction. When we were standing at Canada power plant check post, a Kerala registered car passed through that check post. A political party's names was written next or at the bottom of the number plate in the car. He looked at the car with respect and let it go. I didn’t see anyone in that car signing anywhere. This guard even told us that, those people are political leaders (well we are not!!!). We talked with him for some more time. Every moment passes he become more and more ballistic and finally without any option we drove back to Glendale and then took Mettuapalyam - Coimbatore - Palakkad - Mannarkkad road and reached home after 10 in the night instead of lunch time.

I never understood what went in the head of those two forest guards. At least they could have let us go with a warning or fine us. After all we reached at the other end of that road. Also ours was Karnataka registered car, so at least they can assume that we were not aware about this restriction. We didn’t see any sign anywhere on the road indicating that its closed. Laster on the way to Glendale, when we finally found a place to eat something I asked the hotel owners whether that road is indeed closed. They told that, if you reach there in the night they don't let go otherwise its ok. They never heard about the pass which these were insisting on. 

I think they did what they did because they could do that. 

Sajeev.

PS: Some months after this incident happened I send a letter with details to Coimbatore and Nilgiri district's forest officers, copying forest officers from Attapadi range and Palakkad districts of Kerala. No one replied.