Saturday, August 15, 2026

Shubh Sukh Chain

Wish you all on the happy occasion of 80th anniversary of India's Independence day. 

Today, let's also sing the official National anthem of Provisional Government of Free India from 1943 onward. 

History of this song - Shubh Sukh Chain- goes as follows. Lakshmi Sahgal, who was an INA member, favoured the selection of Jana Gana Mana, which was composed by Rabindranath Tagore. She arranged to have it sung at a women's meeting attended by S.C. Bose. Later Bose commissioned a free translation of 'Jana Gana Mana' to Hindustani. This translation - Shubh Sukh Chain - was written by Capt. Abid Hasan Safrani and composed by Capt. Ram Singh Thakuri. became the official national anthem of the Provisional Government.

Lyrics:

Shubh sukh chain ki barkha barse,
Bhārat bhāg hai jāg.
Panjāb, Sindh, Gujarāt, Marāṭha, Drāviḍ, Utkal, Banga,
Chanchchal sāgar, Vindhy, Himālay, nīla Yamuna, Ganga.
Tere nit guṇ gaeñ, tujhse jīvan paeñ, sab tan paeñ āsha.
Sūraj ban kar jag par chamke, Bhārat nām suhāga,

Jay ho! Jay ho! Jay ho! Jay, jay, jay, jay ho!

Bharat naam suhāgā!
Sab ke dil meñ prīt basae teri mīṭhi vāṇi,
Har sūbe ke rahnevāle, har mazhab ke prāṇi,
Sab bhed aur farak mita ke Sab godh men teri ākhe, gūnthe prem ki māla.
Sūraj ban kar jag par chamke, Bhārat nām suhāga,

Jay ho! Jay ho! Jay ho! Jay, jay, jay, jay ho

Bharat naam suhāgā!
Shubha savere pankh pakhere, tere hi guṇ gaeñ,
Bhās bhari bharpūr havaeñ, jīvan meñ rut laeñ,
Sab mil kar Hind pukāre,
Jay Āzād Hind ke nāre, pyāra desh hamāra.
Sūraj ban kar jag par chamke, Bhārat nām suhāga,

Jay ho! Jay ho! Jay ho! Jay, jay, jay, jay ho!

Bharat naam suhāgā!

References:
1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shubh_Sukh_Chain

E20: Who really pays for India’s ethanol transition?

An IOC pump

What fuel do we use for a petrol engine?

The obvious answer is petrol. Well, the Indian government doesn't seem to think it should remain just petrol. India has progressively moved from lower ethanol blends to E20—petrol containing 20% ethanol. The word “20%” is of particular significance here.

Today, E20 petrol is being supplied across India, including to a large population of vehicles that were designed and certified under earlier fuel standards. At the same time, whatever economic benefit is expected from ethanol blending is not directly reflected in a lower price at the petrol pump.

So let's ask a few simple questions.

1. Did the government invest money in building new engines suitable for ethanol?

Not directly for consumers. Instead, the government supported the ethanol industry through various schemes, including interest subsidies for ethanol-production projects, while automobile manufacturers progressively developed E20-compatible vehicles.

But this raises another question: what about vehicles that were already on the road?

2. Did the government allow people to buy non-E20 petrol?

The answer is not a straightforward no.

Premium petrol products such as XP100 from IOC and Power100 from HPCL are available, and these products have higher octane ratings. However, they are considerably more expensive than ordinary petrol and are available only at selected fuel stations.

In Bengaluru, for example, prices of these premium fuels have been significantly higher than ordinary E20 petrol. So while alternatives may technically exist, they are not necessarily practical alternatives for an ordinary consumer who simply wants petrol without a 20% ethanol blend.

3. Did the government acknowledge the potential problems associated with moving from lower ethanol blends to E20?

The government maintains that E20 has undergone extensive testing and that E20-compliant vehicles can safely use the fuel.

However, there is an important distinction here. A vehicle being material-compatible with E20 is not necessarily the same as being fully optimized for E20 in terms of performance and fuel economy. The automobile industry itself had a phased roadmap for this transition.

That distinction matters because millions of older vehicles remain on Indian roads.

4. Did consumers get any benefit in terms of petrol prices from E20?

Not directly.

Brent crude is currently around $88–89 per barrel, while petrol in Bengaluru is around ₹111/litre. Brent crude previously reached around $147.50 per barrel in July 2008, while petrol in Bengaluru was around ₹57/litre around that period.

Of course, these two prices cannot be directly compared. Exchange rates, refining costs, taxes, dealer commissions and the pricing mechanism have all changed substantially.

But the comparison is still interesting. Despite the enormous increase in ethanol blending and changes in international crude prices, consumers continue to pay a substantial amount for petrol.

5. Did the government provide financial incentives to people who bought vehicles before the E20 transition to make them E20-compatible?

No comparable government-wide incentive was provided to consumers to retrofit older petrol vehicles for E20. Instead, the government's financial support was primarily directed towards expanding ethanol production capacity.

That creates an interesting imbalance: the industry received substantial policy and financial support to create the E20 supply ecosystem, while owners of older vehicles were largely left to deal with the transition themselves.

6. Did consumers suffer because of E20 petrol?

There are legitimate reasons for consumers to be concerned.

Ethanol contains less energy per litre than petrol. Therefore, when a vehicle designed around a lower ethanol blend runs on E20, fuel economy can be lower. Government and industry estimates generally put the reduction for some older vehicles in the low single digits, although claims of much larger mileage losses have also circulated. Even a 3–5% reduction is not insignificant for someone who drives every day. 

More importantly, there are millions of older petrol vehicles still on Indian roads. Many were designed around lower ethanol blends and were not necessarily designed or optimized for E20.

The important point is not that every old vehicle will be damaged by E20. We don't have evidence to make such a blanket statement. The point is that the entire vehicle fleet was not created under the same fuel standard.

7. Does ethanol automatically mean green fuel?

No.

If ethanol is produced from sugarcane, there is another question we need to ask. Sugarcane is a water-intensive crop and requires fertilizers. So, in a water-stressed country, should we encourage the commercial use of a water-intensive crop for producing fuel?

Ethanol may have environmental advantages in some respects, but calling it simply a “green fuel” without considering the water, agricultural inputs and production process seems overly simplistic.

How did we get here?

Originally, India's national policy targeted 20% ethanol blending by 2030. The target was subsequently advanced, and E20 became the national blending standard from April 2026.

Now let's look at what happened from the vehicle-manufacturing side.

2001: Pilot programme for ethanol blending in India.

2003: India introduced the E5 (5% ethanol-blended petrol) programme in selected states.

November 2006: The E5 programme was extended to 20 states and four Union Territories. Oil companies were directed to sell 5% ethanol-blended petrol, subject to commercial viability.

November 2012: The government decided to implement 5% ethanol blending across the country.

January 2013: The government notified OMCs to sell petrol with ethanol up to 10% to achieve the 5% blending target.

June 2022: India achieved the 10% average ethanol-blending target, ahead of the original November 2022 target.

April 2023: E20 rollout began. The original target had been to complete the nationwide rollout by 2030. Automobile manufacturers started producing vehicles with E20-compatible materials and components, although these vehicles were not necessarily fully optimised for E20.

April 2025: Vehicles manufactured from April 1, 2025 became fully E20-compliant under the industry's transition roadmap, according to SIAM.

There is an important distinction here. SIAM has stated that vehicles manufactured from around 2008 were generally material-compatible with E10. For E20, the industry's roadmap provided for E20 material compatibility from April 2023 and E20-optimised vehicles from April 2025.

This leaves us with a large legacy fleet.

Vehicles manufactured between roughly 2008 and 2022 were generally designed around E10 compatibility, although 2008 should not be treated as a hard cutoff. And there are also vehicles manufactured before 2008 still running on Indian roads.

We therefore cannot simply assume that every petrol vehicle currently on Indian roads was designed with E20 in mind.

In its 2024 Biofuel Revolution document, SIAM explicitly acknowledged that most existing vehicles were E10-compatible and discussed the engineering challenges involved in converting the existing fleet to E20. It also highlighted the importance of E10 fuel availability during the transition.

By August 2025, however, SIAM was publicly presenting the ethanol programme as a successful collaborative initiative and highlighting the automobile industry's adaptation to the government's ethanol-blending targets.

So there is a legitimate question here: What happened to the earlier concern about the difficulty of converting the existing fleet?

Then came another development. On July 28, 2026, SIAM sent a letter to the government raising concerns about chloride and moisture contamination found in some E20 fuel samples. The concern was not simply that ethanol itself damages engines; it related to the quality and contamination of the fuel being supplied. The letter was subsequently withdrawn after SIAM said that the data required further validation. That episode does not prove that E20 itself is unsafe. But it does demonstrate that fuel quality and the transition to E20 deserve continued scrutiny.

So who should bear the cost?

I believe a petrol engine should be designed for the fuel standard applicable to it. If the government changes the fuel specification by introducing a higher ethanol blend, then vehicles designed for the earlier specification should not simply be expected to absorb all the consequences.

If older vehicles are not certified or optimized for E20, it should be the government's responsibility to ensure that suitable fuel remains available—or provide a reasonable mechanism for consumers to deal with the transition. After all, consumers bought their vehicles according to the fuel standards and policies applicable at the time. They should not be forced into a new fuel standard and then be expected to bear all the consequences of that policy change.

Consumers pay a lot to the government in terms of taxes here. 

While buying vehicle (Karnataka)

Tax: 4-Wheelers
Below 5 Lakhs: 13% of vehicle cost
5 to 10 Lakhs: 14% of vehicle cost
10 to 20 Lakhs: 17% of vehicle cost
Above 20 Lakhs: 18% of vehicle cost

Tax: 2-Wheelers
Below 50,000: 10% of vehicle cost
50,000: 12% of vehicle cost

In addition to that, additional levies of 11% calculated directly on top of the base lifetime tax amount. Also if you are registering more than one 4-wheeler under same individual name in Karnataka then extra 2% surcharge.

Now coming to fuel, petrol is one of the highly taxed products in India. In Bengaluru, roughly ₹37–38 out of every ₹111 spent on a litre of petrol represents direct Central and Karnataka fuel taxes, although the exact amount varies with the applicable petrol price and tax calculation.

At the same time, banks have provided substantial loans to ethanol projects, and companies have invested heavily in ethanol production capacity based on government policy. The government has also provided significant interest subsidies to support this expansion.

That investment may still prove useful. The government has created a large and predictable market for ethanol, and the infrastructure built for the E20 program is not going away.

But there is a question that should not be ignored: Should the cost of creating this new ethanol ecosystem be borne, even partly, by people who bought petrol vehicles under the earlier fuel regime? That is the question I think deserves a serious answer.

Sajeev

One seat is not a trend; but is it a warning?

Prashant Kishore and his party finally won an assembly seat in Bihar — Bankipur. Winning a single seat on its own is not a significant electoral event. After all, the ruling BJP-led alliance is sitting on a comfortable majority. The bigger impact may be on perception. He won the seat vacated by the current BJP chief when he moved to the Rajya Sabha. More importantly, this is not rural Bihar. Bankipur is an urban constituency in Patna, an area traditionally considered a strong ground for the BJP. Nabin himself won the seat four times — in 2010, 2015, 2020 and 2025. Before 2010, the constituency was known as Patna West. Nabin had won it once in 2006, while his father, Navin Kishore Prasad Sinha, had won it multiple times. 

In the last Bihar election, Prashant Kishore's party was unable to open its account in the Bihar Assembly. Maybe Bihar's voters simply didn't think he was there to stay. This time, however, the numbers are interesting. Compared with the previous election, the BJP's vote share in this seat fell from 62.66% to 34.4%, while the RJD's vote share fell from 29.55% to 10.95%. Considering that the previous election was held only nine months ago, in November 2025, it is mostly the same electorate voting again — but this time, many of them chose a different person.

Is this the beginning of a trend? We can't say yes at this moment. Despite many people seeing this as the beginning of the end of the BJP's majority, there simply no evidence to reach that conclusion. At best, this result might force BJP strategists to rethink their election strategy and open their eyes to the possibility that upper-class urban voters will not necessarily always vote for them. We also can't conclude that people have suddenly abandoned their caste identities and embraced everything Prashant Kishore put forward. One election is nowhere near enough evidence for that either.

But there is a more interesting question here. Will the BJP double down on its religious ideology as an electoral strategy and continue blaming the previous governments for everything that is wrong with the economy? Or will it be willing to accept that some of the problems may be of its own making? And perhaps an even more important question is whether the BJP will come to terms with the fact that there is an entire generation born after 2005 that, for all practical purposes, has seen only NDA governments. After being continuously in power for more than twelve years, everything cannot continue to be blamed on previous administrations.

Perhaps Bankipur is just one seat. Perhaps it means nothing. But sometimes, one seat is enough to make a party ask a few uncomfortable questions.

Sajeev

Friday, June 26, 2026

Legends - Series Review

Image copied from IMDB
There are plenty of movies and TV series centered around the drug trade, but Legends takes a refreshingly different approach.

Set during the final years of Margaret Thatcher's government in UK, the story focuses less on gunfights and violent confrontations and more on the intelligence, patience, and psychological challenges involved in undercover operations. Story is inspired by one of Britain's most remarkable undercover operations. If you're expecting a typical action-packed drug thriller, this isn't it — and that's exactly what makes it stand out.

Instead of the usual police or special forces, the story follows a small undercover team from the Customs Department that is tasked with infiltrating two major drug trafficking networks. Each officer adopts a carefully crafted identity — or legend — and must live that persona convincingly to gain the trust of dangerous criminals.

The series also explores the personal and professional challenges faced by the team. Differences of opinion, trust issues, and the emotional toll of living a double life add depth to the story and make the characters feel authentic.

Legends is a slow burning crime drama that relies on suspense, strong performances, and clever storytelling rather than excessive violence. If you're interested in undercover operations, crime investigations, and drug-related stories — but prefer a more realistic and character driven narrative; then this is definitely worth watching.

Series is created and written by Neil Forsyth (also known for acclaimed crime dramas The Gold, Guilt etc.). The episodes are directed by Brady Hood (known for Top Boy and Great Expectations etc.), along with Julian Holmes (known for directing episodes of Reacher and The Boys).  

Sajeev

The Sheep Detectives - Movie Review

Image copied from IMDB site
My wife often says, "It's always better to watch a movie that makes you laugh." The Sheep Detectives is one such films that blends humor, mystery, and heartfelt moments.

Movie explores the unique relationship between farm animals and humans. I must admit, I was a little disappointed when a major character dies right at the beginning. However, what follows is an engaging mystery that kept me glued to the screen until the very end. The film balances suspense, murder investigation with light-hearted comedy; making it enjoyable for both mystery lovers and those simply looking for a feel-good watch.

Beyond the mystery, the movie introduces a few thought-provoking ideas. One that stood out to me was the amusing conversation among the sheeps about the idea of God. Their innocent attempt to understand a human belief leads creates one of the funniest and most memorable scenes in the film.

The dialogue goes like this:

Lily: "Who's God?"
Sebastian: "It's a bit confusing. God is a shepherd."
Mopple: "So he could be our shepherd?"
Sebastian: "No. Because he's also a lamb."
Lily: "What?"
Sebastian: "And he's also invisible. And he's made of bread. And he damns things."
Lily: "Dams things? Like a beaver?"
Sebastian: "Yes."
Lily: "So God is a big invisible lamb beaver, made of... bread?"
Sebastian: "Yes. And they eat him on Sundays."
Mopple: "Poor God."

Another incident in the movies is how sheeps forget things.

Moments like these are what make The Sheep Detectives so charming. The humor is clever, the mystery is engaging, and the characters have a good story to tell.

The film is based on the German mystery novel Three Bags Full by Leonie Swann. Set in the quiet English hamlet of Denbrook, it is directed by Kyle Balda and written by Craig Mazin. If you're looking for a light-hearted mystery with plenty of laughs, memorable characters, and a few unexpectedly philosophical moments, The Sheep Detectives is well worth watching.

Sajeev

Tuesday, February 10, 2026

Mumbling Mainstreet: Corruption Perceptions Index (CPI) is out and India is rated below global average

"...index measures perceived levels of public sector corruption...India ranked 91st out of 182 countries and territories on the Corruption Perceptions Index (CPI) for 2025, with a score of 39, according to the latest report released by Transparency International on Tuesday."

Looking at the historical trend, India’s score has hovered between 36 and 41 from 2013 to 2025. In comparison, key developed countries in the Asia-Pacific region - Singapore (84), New Zealand (81), and Australia (76) - recorded the highest scores, ranking third, fourth, and 12th globally, respectively.

India seems to be standing still, showing little progress toward the less-corrupt end of the spectrum. Public sector employees are not extraterrestrials sent to work for us - they come from the same society as the rest of us. Which means, this ranking reflects a broader societal context. If we want meaningful change, the focus cannot be limited to government machinery alone. As a society, we need to introspect and ask ourselves: what can we do to reduce corruption in our everyday interactions. 

CPI is not just a score - it’s a mirror reflecting our collective responsibility.

Sajeev

References

Shiny new projects: But are we taking care of what we already have?

Howrah-Mumbai route - A highly congested mainline with IR

The 508 km Mumbai–Ahmadabad bullet train project began with an estimated cost of around ₹1 lakh crore. Today, that figure has already crossed ₹2 lakh crore, and by the time the first train runs, it may go even higher. Does this mean India should avoid investing in bullet trains? Absolutely not. High-speed rail is important and should be welcomed.

In fact, Indian Railways has already begun viability studies for new high-speed corridors across the country. Recent reports suggest proposed routes spanning nearly 4,000 km, with an estimated cost of ₹16 trillion, including corridors such as Mumbai-Pune, Pune-Hyderabad, Hyderabad-Bengaluru, Hyderabad-Chennai, and Delhi-Varanasi. Ambition is clearly not lacking.

But ambition alone is not enough.

The real question is whether we are giving the same level of attention to existing railway assets.

Railways are modernizing stations and introducing new rolling stock like the Vande Bharat(VB) trains, including upcoming sleeper versions. Yet, despite their design capability, Vande Bharat trains are not running anywhere near their full potential speeds on most routes. Only a few short sections allow them to operate faster, while across the rest of the network, time savings compared to older trains are sometimes not enough to justify their fares.

This is not a new problem. Even before Vande Bharat, India had trains capable of higher speeds. The Gatimaan Express, introduced in 2016, was rated for 160 kph, but it could sustain this speed only on the Delhi-Agra section. The Tejas Express, launched in 2017 and also rated for 160 kph, usually runs at around 130 kph and that too not across its entire route. Shatabdi trains, introduced back in 1988, can reach 150 kph only on select stretches. Rajdhani and Duronto services face similar limitations.

These examples point to a clear issue: the constraint is not trains, but infrastructure.

Upgrading existing tracks, signalling systems, fencing, and maintenance standards requires sustained investment and execution. Without this, new trains and new projects will continue to underperform.

The same pattern is visible beyond passenger services. The Dedicated Freight Corridors(DFC) were announced in 2005, yet while the Eastern DFC is operational, the Western DFC is still expected only by 2026 - nearly two decades later. Meanwhile, Vizhinjam International Seaport has already become functional, but its dedicated rail link is incomplete. Cochin Port, operational even before Independence and strategically located near international shipping lanes, has weak rail connectivity, with only about 25–27% of cargo moved by rail.

Because inland waterways and coastal shipping remain underdeveloped in India, this shortfall pushes even larger share of long-distance hinterland freight onto already congested roads. Again, the issue is not the absence of new projects, but the underutilisation of existing ones.

There is also a softer, but equally important, aspect-civic sense. Modern trains like Vande Bharat often become unclean by the end of a single journey. Infrastructure investment alone cannot solve this. Civic responsibility must be treated as seriously as technical education, starting at the school level.

India’s railways undoubtedly need new lines, faster trains, and ambitious projects. But progress cannot come only from what is new and visible. Reducing general and sleeper coaches while increasing AC coaches may improve revenue figures, but it will not automatically improve mobility or logistics efficiency.

True modernisation lies in balancing new investments with systematic upgrades of what we already have. Without that balance, even the most glamorous projects will fall short of their promise.

Sajeev

References

Sunday, September 7, 2025

Siddis of India: A Cultural Evening at NGMA Bangalore


Panel Discussion at NGMA-B

When I got the invite from NGMA-B (National Gallery of Modern Art – Bangalore) for a cultural program related to Siddis, the first thing that came to my mind was whether it was on a weekday or a weekend. Many of their earlier programs had fallen on weekdays, and I was not able to attend. Fortunately, this one was on a Saturday. I made a note in my mind and closed the email invite.

Siddis are an ethnic community of African origin. They are descendants of Bantu people from East Africa, who were brought to India as slaves, soldiers, and mercenaries for the Deccan Sultanates, and as seafarers who later became settlers. Perhaps the most famous Siddi in India is Malik Ambar.

I first came across the word Siddi when I read about Malik Ambar long back. Born in 1548 in Ethiopia, Malik Ambar came to India as a slave and became a soldier in the Ahmadnagar Sultanate. He quickly rose through the ranks and became regent (administrator) of Sultanate. He is remembered for successfully resisting the expansion of Mughal Empire into the Deccan during the reign of Jehangir. Malik Ambar founded a city called Kadki, which his son Fateh Khan renamed Fatehnagar. Later, when Aurangzeb conquered the area, he renamed it Aurangabad. Since the recent governments are on a renaming spree, I checked whether there was any plan to rename Aurangabad. Looks like government already did it in 2023; new name of the city is - Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar. The city Malik Amber founded is the largest city in Marathwada region of Maharashtra.

Siddi's Dance at NGMA-B

Again, I came across Siddis again while reading about famous Murud-Janjira Fort (off the coast of Raigad district in Maharashtra). This was one of the most powerful forts in India. Siddis rebuilt the original wooden fort built by fishermen here using stone in early 1100s. They Siddis controlled it for next eight and a half centuries, withstanding repeated attacks by powerful Marathas. They retained control until India’s independence.

So, it was very exciting to attend NGMA-B program about Siddis. Unfortunately, due to notorious Bangalore traffic, we missed the first session on a film about them. Instead, we started with snacks they had prepared. Among them was a special pakoda made using a small leaf and a couple of other items. I asked about the leaf, and they told me the name, but I cannot recall it while writing this article. Online searches bring up many images and names of different leaves, but not this exact one.

After snacks came a panel discussion, where two leaders from the Siddi community, along with others involved in the Damami initiative, shared their thoughts. Damami is a women-led homestay project in Lingadabailu village, Yellapur taluka (Uttara Kannada, Karnataka), located in Western Ghats. The word Damami comes from a traditional Siddi musical instrument of same name.

The Siddis today are mostly located along the coastal areas of Western Gujarat, Karnataka (Uttara Kannada, Dharwad, and Belagavi districts), Goa, and the Konkan coast of Maharashtra. They also have a small presence in Hyderabad as well. Siddhi's religious affiliations are mixed – depending on the region, they follow Hinduism, Islam, or Christianity. In Gujarat, Karnataka, and Goa, they are recognized as Scheduled Tribes. In Karnataka, they are additionally classified as a PVTG (Particularly Vulnerable Tribal Group).

Contrary to their powerful past with Murud-Janjira, Siddis today face significant challenges. Living in rural and forested areas, they struggle with poverty, economic hardships, and social marginalization. Their population size is also declining. Even though the panel discussion was short, the passionate answers and statements by Mohan Ganapati Siddi highlighted the multiple issues faced by the community.

The program concluded with vibrant dance performances by the Siddi community. As I left the auditorium, I thought about staying in one of the homestays operated by the Siddis under the guidance of  Sanjeevani Rural Livelihood Mission. It would be an opportunity to experience life up close with an ethnic group of African origin, to see how they have assimilated into Indian culture, and to witness the traditions – dance, music, and instruments – that they still carry in their hearts from the other side of the Arabian Sea.

Sajeev

You can see recording of full program by NGMA-B here -> 'DAMMAI- Dreams, Drums & Roots | NGMA-B'


Wednesday, September 3, 2025

On reading


Four years ago, I took up Goodread's annual reading challenge and set a target of 36 books. I was quite confident that I would finish much more than 36 (three books per month). By the way, that confidence wasn’t backed by any past history (just my overconfidence). Twelve months came and went, but I completed only 5-6 books. Next year, I kept the same target; only to fail once more. Next year, target was reduced to 12 - and still fell short. Finally, this year, I decided not to set any target at all!!!

I’m not a voracious reader, but I do enjoy reading. If it’s a thrilling novel, an interesting work of fiction, or even biographies (that doesn’t try too hard to showcase the author’s command over language), I can finish it quickly. But when it comes to business, non-fiction, or self-improvement books - often written in dense, heavy language - turning the pages becomes a struggle. More often end up leaving those books half way and end up just another entry in my book shelf.

With the explosion of content in YouTube, Instagram, TikTok and other numerous apps; people’s attention spans reduced considerably. Reading books, however, is not about quick consumption — it requires committed, focused, quality time. The real question is, are we still willing to invest that time and find joy in it or just run after another two minute video?

At office, we have a book club. Out of nearly 900 employees, only about 25-30 show up for monthly meetings. Organizers tried different strategies to increase participation, but without any success. This may not be the case everywhere, but I seriously doubt if many book clubs see their membership grow significantly over time.

Amazon, which started as a platform to sell books, still sells plenty of them, as do many other companies. Yet, with the rise of social media, infinite scrolling, and an ever-growing number of online creators, more people are hooked to the instant gratification of videos rather than the slow, deep world of books.

I must admit, I too consume a lot of online videos on politics, travel, technology, interviews, movies, long and short clips of different kinds. But after moving to new home recently, I thought of subscribing to a few print magazines. Electronic formats save paper and environmentally friendly; but reading a magazine end to end on web is not same as reading a printed copy. Sites  like Audiable are great too, but I often find myself forgetting the beginning by the time I reach the end. This may not be the case for everyone, but it is for me.

So, I finally subscribed to Mathrubhumi daily newspaper and its weekly magazine; also India Today, Caravan, and a couple of others. Last week, Mathrubhumi Weekly arrived with its Onam supplement, and I’ve been reading both in my free time. To my own surprise, my screen time has dropped significantly, and I now find myself turning more pages under the balcony light at midnight than staring at a mobile screen.

I don’t know if this phase will pass and I’ll drift back to binge-watching Netflix, Jio Hotstar or Amazon Prime. But for now, I’m trying to be more selective about online content and hoping to increase (or at least maintain) my current level of reading printed books and magazines.

Sajeev

Friday, August 22, 2025

Railway retiring rooms - Needs better care

Indian Railways, under the Ministry of Railways, is a mammoth institution with more than 1.2 million employees. It operates over 13,000 trains, connects 7,000+ stations, and carries more than 6.9 billion passengers annually. On the freight side, nearly 12,000 trains run daily. Beyond transport, Railways manage schools, hospitals, factories, internet services, hotels, catering, metro operations, real estate, research institutes, training academies, housing colonies, and even sports facilities.

One such lesser-known service is Railway Retiring Rooms. These can be booked using a valid ticket PNR at either the source or destination station. Bookings are available in flexible slots of 4, 8, 12, or 24 hours (up to 48 hours at a stretch), making them a practical alternative to hotels with rigid check-in/out rules. They’re economical, safe, and highly convenient for passengers in transit.

On a recent trip to Uttar Pradesh, I booked two retiring rooms at Prayagraj Junction for 36 hours. The booking process was straightforward online, but at the station, the counter staff couldn’t validate it with just the PNR. Thankfully, I had the RR number from the SMS confirmation, which helped. The staff wrote the booking details on paper for the caretaker, and we finally got access to our rooms.

The rooms were well equipped – refrigerator, fan, AC, almirah, writing table, cushioned chairs, coat stand, and bed. However, the real problem lies in cleanliness and maintenance.
  • Bathroom design flaws: Water doesn't quickly flow toward drain; spilling into the room if not checked.
  • Poor upkeep: Tiled floors and walls were discolored, showing absence of periodic maintenance.
  • Bedsheets and mattresses: The provided sheets were faded, stained, and clearly beyond their usable life. Only after insisting did the caretaker replace them, but even the new set was worn out.
Clean bathrooms and hygienic bedding are basic expectations, especially in facilities meant for passengers arriving after long train journeys.
 
Broader Cleanliness Issues in Railways

The cleanliness issue is not limited to retiring rooms. Trains themselves often suffer from poor maintenance. On one Delhi–Amritsar trip, I encountered a bogie with a floor littered with food waste and four toilets in such a state that three were unusable. Overflowing, unhygienic toilets are not just unpleasant – they can lead to health issues, particularly for women who risk urinary tract infections.

Here the problem is not just with railways, but with passengers as well. Very often, passengers leave train toilets messy, spill food on floors, or misuse the facilities without a second thought. If users respected these spaces the way they would in their own homes, then the experience for everyone would improve drastically. 

Why Retiring Rooms Matters

Despite the shortcomings, retiring rooms remain a cost-effective, safe, and practical option, especially:
  • For travelers arriving at odd hours.
  • For short stays without the hassle of hotel check-in timings.
  • For passengers wanting to explore the city with bookings up to 72 hours (48 hours each with incoming and outgoing PNRs).
During my stay, I met a traveler who didn’t speak Hindi and was struggling because the lockers in the rooms had no locks. The caretaker brushed him off, saying - Railways doesn’t provide locks.” Luckily, I had a spare lock to lend him. It makes one wonder – if lockers are provided, why not add a basic lock and key system, charging passengers if misplaced? Such small improvements could go a long way.
 
Final Thoughts
 
In the hospitality business, cleanliness is non-negotiable. All the amenities in the world cannot compensate for unhygienic toilets or stained bedsheets. The good news is that these are not expensive fixes – they simply require consistency and cultural change, both from passengers and the Railways.
Retiring rooms have the potential to be a blessing for travelers if maintained well. They’re safe, affordable, and convenient – all they need is better care.

Sajeev

Note: 
Not all stations have retiring rooms. Please check availability before planning your journey.

PS: During my stay, I also came across another issue: the lockers in dormitory did not have locks. A fellow traveler, who didn’t speak Hindi, was trying to explain this to the caretaker, but was brushed off with the reply - Railways doesn’t provide locks. This is a serious oversight. If lockers are installed, they should come with basic locks and keys. Misplaced locks could easily be charged to passengers at checkout. It’s a small step, but one that can greatly improve both security and peace of mind for travelers. I always keep two small locks and keys while travelling in railways (very useful if you use clock room facility). I gave my spare lock to him, which he returned the next morning.

Tuesday, June 3, 2025

Hyderabad Diaries: Exploring the City of Pearls - Day 3 (Ramoji film city)


'Udayananu Tharam' is a famous Malayalam movie (released in 2005) that talks about—and mocks—what happens behind the scenes in the film industry. Around that time, one interesting detail also came out: the entire movie was made in Ramoji Film City. People no longer need to search for natural or suitable locations for a movie. One can do everything within the comfort of a film city.

Built by Ramoji Rao, this film city spans over 2,000 acres and is probably the largest integrated film city in the world. More than 2,500 films have been shot here. Some of the famous ones include Bahubali (both 2015 and 2017), Chandramukhi, Enthiran(Robot), Krrish 3 (2013), Kick (2014) etc. The place has sets for airports, railway stations, hospitals, foreign cities, palaces, villages, jails, streets, houses, and more. The film city also welcomes tourists and showcases various aspects of movie-making. In case you want to stay inside the complex, there are multiple hotels like Sitara, Tara, etc. If you're looking for a destination wedding venue or want to host corporate events, Ramoji is a good choice.

The film city is located far from the main city. From our location at Lakdikapul, it’s more than 35 km away. Fortunately, it's close to the Outer Ring Road, which offers easy connectivity back to the Bangalore highway. Since coming back to city areas would cost a lot of time, we planned the Film City visit for the last day and headed straight to Bangalore from there. We had an early breakfast, checked out from the hotel, and jumped into the car to reach the city. Since it was Monday morning, there was a lot of traffic on the way. Eventually, we got onto NH-65 (Pune–Machilipatnam), but that didn’t ease the traffic. After a while, we crossed the ORR junction on NH-65. From there, the film city is quite close. There’s ample parking space at Ramoji. Since we didn’t know when we’d get another break, feeding Niha became a priority.

There was one issue at the booking counter. Ramoji doesn’t permit cameras with lenses over 55mm. I didn’t have an 18–55mm lens suitable for my camera, so I had to go back and leave the camera in the car. Everything is well organized here—after booking, we could directly join the queue to board a bus to the main film city. The bus was nicely decorated and dropped us at first stop after a while. 

Ramoji Film City

It's good to allocate two days to view film city. However if you have only one day, then you need to pick and choose what you want to see and to skip. As one Quora post suggested, it's better to try filmy dunia, space ride, moving making, wild west etc. at the beginning and then go for studio tour. This again depends on people to people - what I liked might be different from what you like; so make a plan which choose your interests. 

I recall reading that there's an opening ceremony worth watching at film city. Unfortunately, by the time we reached inside, it was a bit late, and the ceremony had likely ended. We took a look around and waited at the first drop point. Buses for the Studio Tour came and went quickly, clearing the queue in front of us. Eventually, we got onto one and officially began our Ramoji Film City tour. Since I'm writing this article months after the actual trip, I've forgotten the exact sequence of events, so the order described below may not be entirely accurate. After boarding the bus, the guide began introducing Ramoji Film City and its history. As we moved along, she pointed out various landmarks and mentioned names of movies/scenes were shot in each location.

Many houses we saw were just facades — only the fronts were built. But on movies, they look like complete houses or streets. After viewing several such sets, the bus dropped us off at the Bhagavatham set. Here, you can walk through Pandavas' Indraprastha and, in the next room, the Kauravas' Hastinapur. If I recall correctly, there were a few more sets, all separated by single walls. A short walk ahead took us to a railway station set with couple of bogies of a train (not real railway bogies, but something they made there). It felt like, within just 1–2 square kilometers, you could shoot an entire movie. After exiting the railway station, we arrived at the next bus stop, where another bus would take us to the next location.

The tour ticket also includes access to three complimentary adventure activities. One of the buses stopped at the adventure zone. From there, a different bus takes you further to the actual spot, which is a bit farther away. Unfortunately, I was seated at the back of the bus and couldn't hear what the driver announced. A few people in front got off, but the rest of us remained. I realized it was the stop for the adventure section only after the bus started moving again. In hindsight, it was probably for the best—we had Divya with little Niha and my mother, who is in her early seventies. They likely wouldn’t have participated, and getting off would have cost us valuable time and other experiences.

We moved on, and the next stop was likely the Bahubali set. On the way, we passed an area where filming was in progress. One tourist tried to take pictures, but our guide quickly asked him not to, as it's against policy. The bus dropped us in front of Mahishmati's gates, and we entered inside the legendary fort. This is a famous location, and many visitors were busy clicking photos. However, it looked a bit neglected—the paint was peeling, and there were cracks in many places. Perhaps the idea is to keep it open to tourists until it can no longer be maintained, and then it will be replaced with a new set. Although it appeared beautiful in the movie, I didn’t find the set particularly impressive and moved quickly toward the exit. By the way, there were couple of restorants nearby which sold Devasena dosas and Bahubali biriyanis!!!

There was a souvenir shop just before the exit, where we picked up couple of items. For those concerned about food and water, Ramoji Film City is well-equipped. Near the Bhagavatham set and again at the Mahishmati set, there were food stalls and full-fledged restaurants.

From there, another bus took us to the European Street set. The buildings resembled the front facades of European towns, much like in movies. We walked through the area and reached (if I remember correctly) hospital and airport sets. Many buildings serve multiple purposes — for example, one side might be the hero’s house, another the villain’s, and yet another side might represent a courthouse. So, one building could function as four different sets. We explored the airport area for a while before heading to the gardens.

When the bus stopped, we got off at what seemed to be one of the highest points in the park, offering good view of the surroundings. Note that, not all part of film city is open to visitors; some areas are reserved for filming or closed during active shoots. We walked downhill toward the first garden, stopping for some time at a restorant on right side. Food took some time to arrive which also helped us to rest for some time. 

Further down were more gardens. My favorite among them was the Japanese Garden — it was beautifully designed with traditional Japanese architecture and flowing water channels. We walked around there for a while, even walking a little through the water. I would have liked to spend more time, but it was already afternoon. We quickly moved towards bus stop and boarded one for next location — I can't recall exactly where it dropped us, but it featured several more gardens, including a small bonsai garden.

Next, we visited the movie making attraction, where they demonstrated how movies are made. Presenters also picked up three ladies from audience and made small video as well. This was followed by space ride. Both experiences were excellent, and I highly recommend them. After exiting from space ride somewhere down we saw the building where wild west show was going on. Unfortunately by the time we arrived, only five minutes remained, and it was the final show of the day. We missed it, but judging by the laughter and excitement of the audience, it seemed enjoyable.

Eventually, it was time to wrap up. Our memorable trip come to an end. Niha probably saw everything without understanding much; I'm sure when she grow older and looks at these photos, she might insists on seeing all one more time. By 5:30 PM, our return bus arrived to take us back to the parking area where we had left our car.

During the ride back, I went through everything we had seen. In a way, I gained better understanding of how sets are used in filmmaking; but it also removed a bit of magic. Won't I think about these sets and when I watch movies next time? Would it affect how genuine the scenes feel to me? I remembered an old roommate of mine - Rakesh - who was a huge Tony Jaa fan. He introduced me to movies like 'Ong-Bak' and 'Tom-Yum-Goong', famous for their flying knee strikes and stunt choreography. Rakesh admired Tony Jaa’s knee strikes and often explained his knee movements during action scenes. He also loved Jackie Chan, whose movies typically end with behind the scenes clips showing how the stunts were performed. Watching those behind the scenes clips made me appreciate the effort but felt like all these are not real. We all know that much of what we see is staged (many dangerous stunts are done by doubles) but still seeing how its done suddenly brought a kind of disappointment. From now on, I’ll probably watch movies with a different perspective.
Back to Bangalore

We left Film City by evening and soon got onto the ORR. It's a nice road to drive on—aside from some repair work happening here and there, there were no blocks on this fully elevated stretch. It took a while to reach the cloverleaf junction where the ORR intersects with NH44. The entire scenario changed once we entered NH44—lots of repairs, heavy traffic, and delays. It took some time to get through all the jams and finally reach lighter traffic. Unlike the stretch of NH44 from Bangalore to Salem and beyond, this segment is narrower and darker.

The long walks inside Film City had made everyone tired and eventually hungry. Finally, we found a place to have dinner, and surprisingly, the food was much better than I expected. Still, we had a long way to go to reach Bangalore. I almost stopped every half hour to have coffee. I think I’ve never had this much coffee and tea in a single day or night in my entire life. At some places, I even had two cups. It was also a bit cold outside. In some places, people were burning things to keep themselves warm. I stopped near one such spot where something was being burned. There was a tea stall nearby, and a lady was watching milk boil on the stove.

A large lorry had also stopped behind our car; compared to its size, our car looked like a child standing in front of an elephant. The truck driver got down and ordered coffee too. On the other side, the fire was still burning whatever people had thrown into it, spreading warmth. I walked back and forth, watching the flames, the truck parked just behind our car, the lorries passing by on the road, the moonlight, and the dark, tall trees lining the other side.

It took a while for the coffee to be ready. Meanwhile, I thought about all the pit stops I had made today. Some places were fully lit but mostly empty. Others had several trucks parked nearby with just a few people around. At some stops, I was the only customer the entire time. Finally, the coffee came—and it was indeed good.

I kept walking for a bit. The truck driver finally woke his trailer from a short sleep and got it moving again. Bangalore was still a distance away, but not too far. We started moving once more.

Sajeev

Sunday, June 1, 2025

Hyderabad Diaries: Exploring the City of Pearls - Day 2


Rashtrapati Nilayam


Booking was done in advance for Rashtrapati Nilayam. In case you want to book, use the official Rashtrapati Nilayam website. Once booked, you need to reach the location on time; they permit a delay of up to 40 minutes. Showing the ticket on mobile with a matching ID card is good enough for entry. To avoid getting late, we left early in the morning. On the way, there were numerous traffic signals, but they didn’t cost us much time as we were traveling in the morning. Surrounded by military facilities, the area is very quiet. There was ample parking space; we left the vehicle there and walked towards the entrance. There was some confusion about whether cameras were allowed inside. One person at the entrance said it was okay to carry a camera, while an older one standing next to him said no. Finally, they asked me to check with the officer in charge, who was in a building next to the parking area.

I went back and the officer in charge wasn’t came yet; rest of the staff were not very sure about rules regarding camera. Eventually, they mentioned a rule (something made up on the spot?!!) stating that to use a camera, permission must be obtained from Delhi at least one day in advance. As time was passing, I left the camera in the car and returned to the entry gate. It seems photography is permitted everywhere except inside the main building. However, I’m still not sure whether DSLRs are allowed or not.

This 16-room main building was constructed in 1860 by then Nizam Nazir-ud-Dowla. Later, it became the country house for British Residents at Secunderabad. After Hyderabad State joined the Indian Union (post Operation Polo) in 1948, this building became part of the President's retreat. The President of India stays here for at least two weeks during his/her winter visit and conducts official business from here.

Tunnel - Secret package

We kept on walking and entered the first building, which hosted a limousine (and many other things) used by presidents in the past. From there, we walked toward the main building. The President and his family stay here in the main building when they are in Hyderabad. Here, we got a guide, and he explained the use of each room. We stood at the door and viewed inside from there as entry to room was prohibited. Once we came outside, we went to the next building and explored the underground tunnel. This tunnel was originally used as a secret passage. In 2023, the government renovated the passage and painted Telangana's Cheriyal folk art along its entire length. Calm music accompained us throughout the passage. Mom and Divya walked quickly and reached ther other side; me and Niha spent considerable time exploring the art. 


The area around the building is still undergoing renovation. They are building new gardens and planting trees etc. The estate spreads over 90 acres and has six gardens as of now — Nakshatra Garden, Herbal Garden, Rock Garden, Maze Garden, Palmatum, and Fruit Orchards. In addition to that, there are three stepwells — Jai Hind Stepwell, Nakshatra Stepwell, and Chinna Baavi. Step wells are more than hundred years old and are currently undergoing renovation. In buildings adjacent to the stepwells, there were detailed descriptions and drawings on how these were used in the past.

It was indeed quite a long walk. At one end, we finally sat on metal benches placed in one of the gardens. Mom sat there and explained to Divya about some of the old systems used in the past. Niha was tired but became a little happy when we left her in the ground. I started exploring the map to see how to reach our next destination.

Chowmahalla Palace








It's quite far from Rashtrapati Nilayam; here, parking is a bit difficult. After waiting in the queue for some time, we finally got a place to park. Chowmahalla means four palaces and was the official residence of the Nizams of Hyderabad. Construction began in 1750s under Salabat Jung and was completed under Asaf Jah V. This palace complex contains grand halls, courtyards, etc. There was some kind of party inside the palace in the evening, so we quickly moved to the main building; it was quite beautiful and displays the luxury of the bygone era of the Nawabs.


To read details about the palace, please visit, 

Lumbini Park

By the time we left the palace, it was evening. Next was the light and sound show at Lumbini Park. This park is spread over three hectares and close to Hussain Sagar lake. We reached there on time, booked the tickets, and went for the show. I can't say I liked the show very much, but it was good. After the show, we spent some more time walking around the park and finally went to Paradise Biryani one more time.

Sajeev

Hyderabad Diaries: Exploring the City of Pearls - Day 1


This was my second trip to Hyderabad, but it felt like the first as I had almost forgotten the previous one, except for some memories of Salar Jung Museum and Golconda Fort.

When I saw that Monday was a holiday, first thing I did was open Google Maps to check which places I could visit in three days. After browsing through multiple locations in and around Western Ghats and nearby areas, I finally zeroed in on Hyderabad. My previous trip was rushed and felt more like ticking items off a list rather than experiencing the place, its culture, and food. So this time, fewer points were chosen and made enough room to enjoy the food. Railway tickets and Rashtrapati Nilayam tickets were booked in advance — everything was ready.

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder once said, “No plan survives first contact with the enemy.”

I can’t fully agree with the statement, but my plan had to change even before the trip began. We were so delayed leaving for Bangalore City Station (SBC) that it became nearly impossible to catch the train. Since we didn’t want to abandon the trip altogether, we decided to go by car. One advantage of traveling by car is that we could carry more items. The downside? I would lose two nights sleep. On top of that ORR traffic consumed a lot of time. Finally, we reached KR Puram. Instead of taking the usual route, we decided to try the newly opened Satellite Ring Road (SRR). Leaving KR Puram behind, we rushed toward Hoskote and entered SRR. The road was good and mostly empty, which helped us to connect quickly back to NH44 after Devanahalli town. 

Time for dinner. We stopped at a good-looking, famous roadside restaurant and placed our order. Along with other dishes, my Hyderabadi biryani also arrived. I stared at it for a moment — it was sticky rice in a greenish color. Did they give me something else? The biryani was overcooked and drenched in palak (a spinach verity). Suddenly, I was hit with déjà vu — memory from more than one and half decade agao. Back then, I lived in Electronic City (Bangalore) with roommates. Among five of us, two (Nixon and Sushanth) lived outside the southern states before. In those days, a Tamil lady came to cook for us every morning and evening — we had to buy the groceries, and she would cook. Sushanth was interested in trying palak curry; he was talking about it for sometime and bought it as well. At that time, I wasn’t familiar with palak, and apparently, neither was she (though she was a good cook otherwise). Sushanth handed her the palak and asked her to cook it. When we returned in evening, there was a green, watery substance waiting for us. Sushanth’s eyes bulged at the sight of the tragic condition of his palak!

Back to the present — I called the waiter and asked about the sad state of the biryani. It looked terrible and tasted even worse. I’ve had Hyderabadi biryani from Meghana, Kritunga, Biryani Zone, and many other restaurants in Bangalore. None of them served it in greenish with such a bad taste! The waiter insisted this was how Hyderabadi biryani is actually made and claimed he had worked at 15 restaurants and all of which cooked and served it the same way. I sincerely hope I never set foot in any of those 15 places. Divya and mom's dishes weren’t great either, but at least not as bad as mine; but both of them didn't finish it.

We left the place and entered Chikkaballapur district. Bangalore’s famous tourist and trekking spot — Nandi Hills — is located here. Chikkaballapur is also the birthplace of legendary civil engineer Sir M. Visvesvarayya. The next district was Anantapur. Penukonda Fort is not far from this highway. Divya, Niha, and mom were already in deep sleep before Penukonda. Divya most of the time never admits she slept while in car - it's just closing the eyes and thinking deeply.

Road was quiet and we crossed Penna River near Pamidi. Penna originates in Karnataka and flows into Bay of Bengal. It’s this river that carves the beautiful Gandikota canyon. Gooty, Dhone, and Kurnool passed by. If it had been daytime, I would have spent some time exploring Kurnool — maybe next time. Kurnool, also known as the 'Gateway of Rayalaseema', was capital of Andhra Pradesh for three years in the 1950s. Next came the legendary Tungabhadra River. The famous capital of the Vijayanagara Empire — Hampi — is located on its banks. Telangana border wasn’t far now.

The NH had changed a lot. When I last drove this route toward Gandikota, there were hardly any restaurants or tea stalls. This time, there were many. I wasn’t expecting such a long drive and had barely slept the previous night. So a few short breaks were necessary in between. Its always better to stop and take a short nap rather than believing that one can drive well, even if they are sleeply. It doesn't matter even if you are so close to home/destination. Always take break when you are sleepy. Just before the Krishna Bridge, saw a roadside tea stall near a petrol pump. I stopped there and slept for a while. Almost half an hour passed and I woke up had a lot of coffee and resumed the trip. Coffee was really good by the way. I wish I’d crossed the Krishna during daylight — maybe next time. With construction underway in many sections, our speed dropped in between. Signboards for Mahbubnagar, Shadnagar, etc., came and went. Finally, after sunrise, we crossed the Outer Ring Road and entered Hyderabad city.

Salar Jung Museum

After breakfast we left the hotel. Our first stop was at Salar Jung Museum, located on the southern bank of Musi River. It’s my favorite place in Hyderabad. I couldn’t complete the museum tour during my last visit.

Museum is named after Mir Yousuf Ali Khan (Salar Jung III), who served as prime minister to the Nizam of Hyderabad, Nawab Sir Mir Osman Ali Khan Siddiqi (Asaf Jah VII), in 1912. Salar Jung resigned in 1914 and devoted the rest of his life to art and literature, collecting artifacts until his death in 1949.

The museum is divided into three main galleries: Central, Eastern, and Western.

Central Gallery includes: Founders’ Gallery, Indian Sculpture, Indian Textiles, Ivory Carvings, famous Veiled Rebecca sculpture, Arms and Armor, Metal Ware, Modern Indian Paintings, Miniature Paintings, Walking Sticks, Toys & Dolls, Flora and Fauna, Silver Gallery, Carpet Gallery, Jade Gallery, Bidri Ware, Kashmir Gallery, Utility Items, Manuscripts, Coins, and the Children's Gallery.

Eastern Gallery includes: Chinese, Japanese, Eastern Porcelain, and Far Eastern Statuary.

Western Gallery includes: European Paintings, Glassware, French Gallery, Clocks, Porcelain, Bronze Sculptures, and Marble Sculptures.

The museum also houses two major libraries. The English section has about 40,000 books, and oriental section has 19,000. Manuscripts are preserved on parchment, textile, palm leaf, paper, glass, wood, and stone in languages like Arabic (25,000+), Persian (4,700), Urdu (1,200), Turkish, Dakhni, Pushtu, Hindi, Sanskrit, Telugu, and Oriya—covering over 84 subjects. There are over 1,500 calligraphic panels and albums of miniature paintings from various schools.

A crowd favorite attraction here is the musical clock, where a small soldier comes out every hour to strike the bell corresponding to the hour. At noon, the place is packed with people waiting to see the soldier hit the bell twelve times. The action is also displayed on large TV screens.

We moved slowly through the galleries. There’s so much to see — it takes time to appreciate the artistry and understand the historical significance of each piece. This time also, we couldn’t finish the entire museum. Divya, mom, and Niha got tired, and we had to leave many galleries for another time. There's ample parking inside and outside the museum. There is a North Indian restaurant behind the main building, which took forever to prepare and serve the food.

Charminar & Beyond

Next on the list were Charminar, Mecca Masjid, and Chowmahalla Palace. We followed Google Maps, but traffic near Charminar was heavy, and there was almost no parking. If you plan to visit, I suggest using Uber, Ola, or an auto instead of your own vehicle. We eventually dropped the plan and headed to Lumbini Park. By the time we got close, it was night.

Google Maps led us to the wrong location — we ended up at the Boat Club road which is close by. It seemed like other visitors made the same mistake. The roads were so crowded that missing a turn meant circling the entire stretch. Eventually, we reached NTR Marg and then turned onto PV Narasimha Rao Road. When we were about to enter Narasimha Rao Marg, a lady driving her scooter in the wrong direction crashed into the right side of our bumper and fell. She apologized, and even the traffic police scolded her, but the damage was done — the inner plastic panel broke. When you overtake car from the left or right or you drive any commercial vehicles, please be careful with cars. There are a lot of plastic parts which broke very easily but very costly to repaint and replace. I once saw an auto rickshaw jumped ahead from left side when everyone else was waiting for red signal to change and pulled apart the bumper of the car standing on the right side. Nothing happened to auto as parts are mostly metal; but car was new and its bumper was broken. Auto guy didn’t even bother to stop!!! 

Incidentally, this road — PV Narasimha Rao Marg — is named after the former Prime Minister. There’s also an expressway in Hyderabad named after him, but few institutions or roads carry his name outside Hyderabad. That’s unfortunate. Many people give full credit to Manmohan Singh for the 1991 economic reforms, forgetting that Singh was Finance Minister under Rao. It was Rao's government which backed and initiated these bold reforms — dismantling the License Raj, promoting foreign investment, liberalization, globalization, and more. His government also launched the Look East Policy, strengthened ties with the U.S., normalized relations with Israel (now one of India’s key defense partners), passed the Panchayati Raj Act, and liberalized foreign exchange management. It was also under Rao's government Indian state took back the fight back to militants in Punjab and finished insurgency as key threat there(Punjab was under president's rule from 1987 to 1992) and cracked down heavily on Kashmiri militants.

We stopped near Hussain Sagar Lake and viewed the Secretariat. The new B. R. Ambedkar Telangana State Secretariat building was beautifully lit. Next to Secretariat was NTR Memorial and Garden, took a left turn, and saw a grand statue of Ambedkar. We parked the car in a groud next to statue and got out. Divya, mom, and Niha were exhausted — ready to eat anything. Divya was sad about missing Charminar, but the prospect of Hyderabadi biryani from the famous Paradise Biryani on IMAX Road cheered her up. Niha, unbothered by worldly concerns, just looked at us hoping something would soon fill her empty stomach. The biryani took a while, but it was really good.

Sajeev