Through the land of Chola's - Srirangam Temple

Kaveri river forms multiple islands during its course from Talakaveri to Bay of Bengal- Nisargadhama, Srirangapatna, Shivanasamudra, Srirangam etc. This time our journey was to one such island called Srirangam. Located in Tiruchirappalli district of Tamil Nadu, this island was formed due to splitting of river to two channels - northern one is called Kollidam and southern one retained the original name - Kaveri. After the island, two channels joins at Kallanai. However, a dam there (originally built during the reign of Karikala of Chola dynasty around 150 CE) splits Kaveri to four distributaries - Kollidam Aru, Kaveri, Vennaru and Puthu Aru. 

Srirangam is considered as the most prominent place among divya desam as per Alvar Vaishnava tradition. Srirangam Ranganathaswamy temple located in this island is considered as one of the largest working religious complex in the world. Spread over 63 hectares (155 acres) this temple complex has 81 shrines and 21 towers.

We travelled to Srirangam in the last days of 2022. I forgot a lot of incidents during the journey and this is written mostly from the notes and fading memory.  We, here means me, Divya, Gokul and his wife Deepa. We started our journey from Bangalore one hour later than expected. By sunrise we crossed Karnataka border at Zuzuvadi and entered Tamil nadu. Since it was early morning, there wasn't much vehicles on the road and we crossed Hosur, Shoolagiri, Krishnagiri, Kaveripatinam and Dharmapuri. By the time we reached Thoppur, all were very hungry. Especially me!!! So we took a quick break and had breakfast from a road side restaurant.

Then came Omalur, Salem and Namakkal.  After Thottiyam the road mostly goes parallel to Kaveri; post noon we crossed river bridge and reached Srirangam island and continued towards temple. We parked somewhere outside and walked towards the gates. As usual with temples, there were some people who sells tulsi, flowers etc. for devotees. Gokul bought one and we went inside, looking at the massive vimana/tower and walls. Like Rameshwaram, Madurai Meenakshi temple etc., here also there is a thousand pillar mandapa. This madapa was built during Vijayanagar er using granite. Unfortunately, mandapa was closed off for renovation when we reached there. 

Temple has seven concentric enclosures; each enclosure has walls and towers. Two outer enclosures are residential and market areas. Five inner ones have shrines for Vishnu, avatars of Vishnu, his consort Lakshmi and various saints of Vaishnavite tradition. Main shrine for Ranganatha is in the innermost enclosure. 

Other main mandapams are - Sesharaya mandapam (built during Nayaka rule), Garuda mandapam (built during Nayaka rule), Kili mandapam (built around 17th century) and Ranga vilasa mandapam for pilgrim families and groups to sit together and rest. 

Temple also has a thirteen storey rajagopuram, nine storey Vellai gopuram, eight storey gopuram built during Vijayanagara era, seven storied Ranga ranga gopuram and numerous other gopurams.

Srirangam temple also has more than 800 inscriptions starting from 9th century during the reign of Aditya Chola I. An interesting fact is, inscriptions are not just in Tamil but also in Sanskrit, Kannada, Telugu, Marathi and Odia. Some of the inscriptions also contain Grantha characters.  

There are some 81 shrines in this complex. Ranganatha, Ranganayaki (Lakshmi), Chakkaratalvar, Narasimha, Rama, Hayagriva, Vasudeva, Varadharaja, Srinivasa, Gopala Krishna, Dhanvantari etc. There are also shrines for Vishnava saints -  Ramanuja, Nammalvar, Desikar, Thondaradipodialwar, Thiruppaanalwar etc.

An inscription

I planned only a couple of hours to view the temple, that now seems to be a mistake. To view and appreciate the massive temple complex and to see the famous Grant Anaicut canal built during the reign of Karikala Chola and Upper Anaicut dam designed by Sir Arthur Cotton will take time. Should have spent one day here. We were also not able to enter inside the inner shrine - Ranganatha- as the sanctum was closed for some time. 

This temple also has a door, which opens only during the ten days of Vaikunta ekadashi. 

After spending some more time around temple premises; we came outside and continued our journey towards the former capital of Chola- Tanjavur. 

Three Ranga temple

Apart from Srirangam island, other famous islands - Srirangapatna, Shivanasamudra - of Kaveri also have Vishnu temples.

Srirangapatna 

Located in Mandya district of Karnataka has a Vishnu temple. Sine this temple at upstream, it's also called Adi Ranga.

Shivanasamudra 

Located in Chamarajanagar district of Karnataka. This comes in the middle and hence called 'Madhya Ranga'. Since the deity here believed to represent the youth and hence called 'Mohana Ranga' and 'Jaganmohana Ranga' as well.

Srirangam

This comes at the end, and hence called Anthya Rangam (the last temple). Deity here is also known as Kasthuri Rangam.

Sajeev

Deepa and Gokul

Divya