Shravanabelagola, Belur and Halebidu - A pilgrimage to the past : Part II

Entrance

For first part read Shravanabelagola

In Belur: To reach Belur from Chennarayapatna bus stand you can either take a direct bus or you can go to Hassan first and from there you will get buses to Belur. I got one to Hassan at 3.12pm, and reached there around 4.22pm (KSRTC charge is 27 Rs). From here I got another bus to Chikmangalore (which will touch Belur) and reached Belur at 5.38 pm (Bus charge is 27 Rs).

Chennakesava (means Handsome Vishnu, dedicated to Lord Vijayanarayana) Temple is near to bus stand. After getting down at Belur I started walking towards the temple, looking for some lodging on both sides. There are many hotels available including one KSTDC. I went to KSTDC first, but after seeing the building (It’s a good one but the rent may be very high), I simply walked backwards and checked the prices for other lodges. Finally settled in ‘Sumukha Residency' at the cost of 300Rs/day (For single room – not bad, this one even have one TV). I spend considerable time in the room by viewing English, one Hindi and one Malayalam movie at the same time. I saw the English movie fully, but missed the climax and some scenes in both Hindi (Red Alert) and Malayalam movie. Red Alert was indeed a good one and missing its climax left a bad taste in mind.

It becomes late and temple was closed by the time reached there. As nothing else to do I roamed around for some time and went for a ‘Masala Dosa’ in the nearby hotel. Next day I reached the temple around 7.15am, but it opened at 7.30am only. Finally time came and I am inside – magnificent!!! Seems like Hoysalas done their best for the construction of the temple.

ChennakesavaTemple

In Chennakesava Temple complex, Chennakesava temple is the centre piece; surrounded by Kappe Chennigraya (built by Shantaladeve - Chief Queen of King Vishnuvardhana) temple. Temple complex also contains two more shrines, a pushkarni (stepped well) and dravidian style rayagopuram (built later by Vijayanagara kings). The construction of the temple was started by King Vishnuvardhana Raya to celebrate his victory over Cholas at Talekad (117CE) in the year 1116AD, continued by his son Narasimha Raya and completed by his grandson Veera Ballala. It took around 103 years to complete this 100 feet high architectural marvel.

Chennakesava Temple from side

The outer and inner pillars of the temple are filled with numerous scenes from Indian mythology, elephants, lions, horses etc. Inner pillars are a must see for any person interested in architectural beauty. It is believed that Jakanachari carved many of these wonderful pieces. The temple of Belur were constructed using Soapstone (steatite) quarried from the present day Tumkur. Belur structures are chemical washed and wax polished once in every ten years to maintain them. These temples are still active and Puja's are performed in morning and evening (a practice of more than 887 years).Temple complex also contain a 42 feet tall post know as 'Kartika Deepotsava Stambha' prepared and installed by Bice Dandanayaka (1414AD) during the reign of King Devaraya of Vijayanagara.

You have to spend a lot of time to enjoy and understand this magnificent work of Hoysalas. They didn't left much space without any decorations - a must see for an enthusiast. After spending some hours in temple I went for breakfast and then to hotel. After checkout I went to Belur bus stand to catch the bus for my next destination - Halebidu.

Sajeev.

Check out the photos for Belur - Chennakesva temple complex
For third part read Halebidu

Shravanabelagola, Belur and Halebidu - A pilgrimage to the past : Part I

Bhagvan Gomateshwara Statue

Visiting historic places will always help us to know more about the way our forefathers lived. To know more about the circumstances they faced, progress they made and of course the famous architectural marvels they left behind. These places always have something to offer; after all they are witnessing the progress mankind made in these long centuries. The intention for my visit to Shravanabelagola (Sacred place for Jains), Belur (Famous for Chennakeshva Temple) and Halebeedu (ancient capitals of Hoysalas) was nothing different.

In Shravanabelagola (Hassan District, Karnataka):

It was not an easy task to wake up early in the morning, after all who don’t want to sleep some time more enjoying the cold of December. But today I have to reach Shravanabelagola early in the morning. I started my journey from Electronic City to Majestic around 5.30 in the morning. As expected there was not much rush in the road, and I reached Majestic in record time (I still remember the horrible Friday evenings when I have to spend more than 2 hours to reach City Railway Station). I get down at BMTC bus stand and slowly crossed the road to KSRTC stand. (Buy some newspapers if you want to spend time in bus).

It’s not easy to get direct buses to Shravanabelagola, there may be some buses. So the next best way is take a bus to Hassan and get down at Chennarayapatna - 138 km from Bangalore; 100Rs in KSRTC - this small town is very near to Shravanabelagola and buses are always there.  Frequent bus services are there from Chennarayapatna to Shravanabelagola. I got a Mangalore bus and boarded it after making sure that it will pass through Chennarayapatna. The bus started after some time, along with that I started my long awaiting journey to Shravanabelagola. After some time we were outside the city limits of Bangalore and moving towards inner Karnataka.

It seems like the government is on road building spree, constructing flyovers, widening the roads etc are going on. Now-a-days building roads become equivalent to creating infrastructure.  In this craze governments are building up thousands of kilometers of highways. Will the creation of more highways solve India’s infrastructure problem? Not necessarily, if people are more and more interested in private transport. Acquiring more lands, crushing hills to level it, building flyovers, constructing jumpers even on small intersections, straightening the roads even if it is going to save some meters only will only fill the pocket of real estate developers and contractors. Instead of this gigantic exercise isn’t is easier to invest on mass public transportation systems like railways? A two lane railway lane will not take the space of 8 lane highway with service roads but it will do the job. We can discuss these things in some other articles.

View from Vindyagiri

After passing through many of these under construction sites I reached Chennarayapatna around 10.15 am. The bus stand is neat, in fact many of the KSRTC bus stands are in good condition. Shravanabelagola buses are parking near to the entrance of the bus stand. I bought a ticket to Shravanabelagola - 9Rs distance. Contrary to expectations both sides of roads to Shravanabelagola doesn’t bear any indication that it is heading to such a historic place. Plenty of coconut trees and small houses made of baked brick and mud tiles remembered me about Kerala. Many of these houses even rented out there walls to advertising agencies and have the ads of Airtel, Vodafone etc.

Around 10.40am I reached KSRTC bus stand in Shravanabelagola. This place is one of the most important pilgrimage centre for Jains. In Kannada Shravanabelagola means 'White pond of Shravana'. Shravanabelagola has two hills–Chandragiri (Chikkabetta) and Vindyagiri. The 57 feet monolithic statue of Bhagavan Gomatheshwara Bahubali is located in Vindyagiri. This statue - considered as one of the largest monolithic statue in the world - was erected here by a general of King Gangaraya. Base of this statue contains inscriptions in Kannada, Tamil, Marati etc. Thousands of devotees will come here in every 12 years to perform Mahamastakabhisheka (In this ceremony statue will be covered with Milk, Curd, Ghee, saffron and gold coins).

A large number of steps along with railings are carved in both the hills (Chandragiri and Vindyagiri) to make the climb easier, but you have to climb these hills without shoes or sandals. A large number of school children were there to see these historical monuments, there is no need to say that if child are there will not be any effect on the instructions like ‘Silence Please etc’. They make that atmosphere live and active with their voices, and their initial enthusiasm didn’t last long when the steps are appeared too much in number and sun in located right above the heads.

Slowly I started my climb to these hills; it may not be an easy adventure when sun is shining right above your head. But after some hundreds of steps you will rewarded with the sight of magnificent inscriptions in the rock. ASI covered many of these inscriptions with glass along with the timeline associated with it; more than 800 inscriptions are there in Shravanabelagola dating from 600 to 1830. Then there are some more steps to climb and finally you will reach right in front of the monolith statue of Bhagvan Bahubali Gamatheshwara on the top the hill. Even after standing many centuries in the rains and hot sun, its look like a just completed poem in stone.

I looked Bhagvan Gomateshwara for many minutes and then went to the sides to see the statues of other theerthankaras. Later I started my descent; you will get a magnificent view of Shravanabelagola and nearby areas during your descent from different points in the hill top. The pond in the middle of the city is really an eye catching one

Chandragiri

After reaching base I headed to Chandragiri hills, here too you have to remove the shoes. It is believed that the last shruta-kevali, Bhadrabahu Swami, and his pupil, Chandragupta Maurya (The founder of the great Mauryan empire, grandfather of Emperor Ashoka, father of Emperor Bindusarae) have meditated here. According to the anecdotes Chandragupta met his future guru Bhadrabahu while he was an emperor. Inspired by Bhadrabahu he later converted in to Jainism and in 298BC; abducted his throne in favor of his son Bindusara and relocated to Shravanabelagola. It is also believed that Chandragupta Basadi, dedicated to Emperor Chandragupta Maurya was originally built by Emperor Ashoka in third century BCE. Chandragiri has many memorials dedicated to numerous monks and shravakas.

Here you have to spend considerable time to visit all the places, read the small but informative descriptions provided by ASI (Archeological Survey of India) and understand the beauty and importance of old architecture. It’s really an interesting experience, to see the places once visited by Guru Bhadrabahu and Emperor Chandragupta Maurya. There is Chandragupta point at the top of the hill, which contains markings of his foot. Being here in this point itself is an unforgettable experience – you are in the place which was once blessed with the presence of one of the greatest emperors in India and famous monks of Jainism.

After seeing numerous basadies I sat in front of the complex, in the shades of some trees, digesting what I experienced just now. Then I started my descent and left Shravanabelagola in another KSRTC bus around 2.40 pm and reached Chennarayapatna after some time.

Sajeev.

Check out the photos of Shravanabelagola
For second part read Belur - Chennakesava temple
For third part read Halebidu

"Sāre jahāñ se acchā hindostāñ hamārā.."

“Sara Jahan se acha…”, is one of my favorite songs, first two lines of this poem will always comes to my mind, in fact this may be one of the many two lines which will always remain in the lips of millions of Indians. This poem (one of the most popular poems in India) is written in Urdu, by Muhammed Iqbal (later become the national poet of Pakistan) was first published in 1904.

Lyrics:

sāre jahāñ se acchā hindostāñ hamārā
ham bulbuleñ haiñ us kī vuh gulsitāñ hamārā
ġhurbat meñ hoñ agar ham, rahtā hai dil vatan meñ
samjho vuhīñ hameñ bhī dil ho jahāñ hamārā
parbat vuh sab se ūñchā, hamsāyah āsmāñ kā
vuh santarī hamārā, vuh pāsbāñ hamārā
godī meñ kheltī haiñ us kī hazāroñ nadiyāñ
gulshan hai jin ke dam se rashk-e janāñ hamārā
ay āb-rūd-e gangā! vuh din haiñ yād tujh ko?
utarā tire kināre jab kāravāñ hamārā
mażhab nahīñ sikhātā āpas meñ bair rakhnā
hindī haiñ ham, vatan hai hindostāñ hamārā
yūnān-o-miṣr-o-rumā sab miṭ gaye jahāñ se
ab tak magar hai bāqī nām-o-nishāñ hamārā
kuchh bāt hai kih hastī miṭtī nahīñ hamārī
sadiyoñ rahā hai dushman daur-e zamāñ hamārā
iqbāl! koī meharam apnā nahīñ jahāñ meñ
m’alūm kyā kisī ko dard-e nihāñ hamārā!

English Translation:

Better than the entire world, is our Hindustan,
We are its nightingales, and it (is) our garden abode
If we are in an alien place, the heart remains in the homeland,
Know us to be only there where our heart is.
That tallest mountain, that shade-sharer of the sky,
It (is) our sentry, it (is) our watchman
In its lap frolic those thousands of rivers,
Whose vitality makes our garden the envy of Paradise.
O the flowing waters of the Ganges, do you remember that day
When our caravan first disembarked on your waterfront?
Religion does not teach us to bear ill-will among ourselves
We are of Hind, our homeland is Hindustan.
In a world in which ancient Greece, Egypt, and Rome have all vanished without trace
Our own attributes (name and sign) live on today.
Such is our existence that it cannot be erased
Even though, for centuries, the cycle of time has been our enemy.
Iqbal! We have no confidant in this world
What does any one know of our hidden pain?

Regards,
Sajeev.

English translation is copied from Wikipedia.

Electric Cars are Back in Action

Nissan Leaf - Photo Courtesy - Nissan Japan

There was a time when the countries were forced to reduce their expenses and stock markets crashed whenever the ‘horrible’ news of oil price rise comes to the market. For decades oil and gas remained as the most important item in the exports basket of many countries - which resulted in rapid development in some countries and in many others it become an oil curse - and important import item for many other countries. Even now these facts remain the same. World still can’t suffer another oil shock.

One of the prime consumers of the oil is transportation industry. Both private and public transportation and utility vehicles still use oil as its primary fuel. It was and still is a curios question in front of us - why world is heavily dependent on oil and gas? Why not it’s replacing oil with electricity? If a handful of laboratories in US can overcome many critical challenges in Science and engineering during the development of Atom Bomb in record time, it will not be a mistake to think that, root cause of the problem lies more in the absence of a strong political will than scientific and technological barriers.

Any one saw the 1996 documentary "Who Killed the Electric Car?”

But the necessity for embracing green technology and reducing carbon footprint the concept of electric cars are back again. In a recent announcement the cash strapped UK government is ready to offer subsidies of up 5000($7935) for nine selected electric cars models (Mitsubushi iMiEV, Daimler Smart, Peugeot iON, Citroen's CZero, Nissan Leaf, Tata Vista, Toyota Prius, Vauxhall's Ampera and GM Chevrolet's Volt) under low carbon transport plan. Along with these companies other majors like BMW, Chrysler, Ford etc. are also on the race to capture the electric car market. GM alone spends around $700mn for ‘Volt’ excluding its R & D Cost.

But still the price for the batteries, not so abundant plug in points (In US there is only around 1000 charging points - this may increase once electric car become popular) raise the range anxiety problems among customers like; when it will stop? Viability of long drives etc. Long charging hours is another turn off for these cars. Range is slowly improving, the new battery powered Nissan Leaf has an EPA certified battery only range of 120 km (Leaf will cost you around $33,000, tax credits may bring down the cost).

In the coming days as world is more eager on cutting the emissions, there may be more investments in this sector along with future technologies like Hydrogen fuel cells, electrically powered heavy vehicles etc. Until then we have to adjust ourselves with the rising costs of Oil & Gas, pollution etc. Other viable alternatives like bio fuels may sounds interesting. But the problem here is, if bio fuels become the primary source of fuel then large swaths of lands will switch their crops from edible food items to that of bio fuels. Which may results in lower per capita food availability.

Once electric cars become popular then it may not take much years to implement the same in heavy vehicles. Governments can bring down the cost by giving initial subsidies on tax to these vehicles or giving incentives to the companies who are ready to spend money on environment friendly vehicles. But the million dollar question is will the automobile companies and governments show continuous interest in these areas? What is waiting for them in the future, a market domination or premature death?

Sajeev.

A 'War' over Nobel 'Peace' Price - China Vs the Rest

Past weeks were really excellent, full of news and thrillers just like watching the next version of "Pirate of The Caribbean". When the hangover of 1.76 lack crore Spectrum scam was over, we got 35,000 crore UP Food Grain Scam (low in numbers but still Indians may be able to adjust with this - Any way next scam will not take much time to come to surface). Reporters may be wondering what they will call for the new scam as many of the heavy weight words are already used. Adopting some practices from history many not be a bad idea like naming the scams like Spectrum Scam II, Fodder Scam II, Telecom scam II etc. When the chilling effect of Radia tapes was over we got the boxing letters of Rajeev Chandrashekhar Vs Ratan Tata. And of course the now famous Cablegage.

Apart from this one more interesting drama is playing in the half closed streets of International diplomacy and economic muscle flexing. This drama started with the announcement of Nobel peace prize- 2010 to Liu Xiaobo. According to Nobel prize committee this prize is awarded to him "for his long and non-violent struggle for fundamental human rights in China", but the Chinese version is entirely opposite. This is already proved to be a action which the new resurgent China can no longer digest.

As December 10(day for distributing the Nobel peace Prize) is approaching, matters are becoming more and more complex. Usually invitations to attend the Nobel price distribution ceremony will be sent to 65 nations who have embassies in Oslo. As China is taken this years ceremony as a prestigious issue, there attempt is to create as much vacant seats in the distribution ceremony. As of Thursday 45 countries had notified the Nobel committee that they will be sending representatives(This includes India also) and 19 countries will not send their representatives (Other than China the list includes Afghanistan, Colombia, Cuba, Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Kazakhstan, Morocco, Pakistan, Russia, Saudi Arabia, Serbia, Sudan, Tunisia, Venezuela, Vietnam etc).

It is already reported that foreign television broadcasts in China have repeatedly gone dark when some thing related to Nobel Peace Price comes up in these channels. Chinese also introduced their own peace price and declared Lien Chan as the winner (A China friendly Taiwanese politician) - it is another matter that this person didn't turned up during the ceremony and prize committee finally gave it to a young girl.

What China is trying to achieve by these actions? As long as they remain as an economic and military power, it may not be a difficult thing to bend other nations views and make them fall in line. It is an open secret that unlike in the west, Asian and other countries usually don't will not mix human rights with that of Diplomacy -  unless these activities are a source of fear for them.

But if china continues to force other nations to take decisions in China's favour this may not be the case. As China become more and more assertive temperature is rising in its borders not only with India, but also with Japan, Vietnam etc. Moreover Chinese economy is an export oriented one - producing much more than they could actually consume, in other words they need other countries to buy them up. In a globalized world countries are interdependent on one another. An economic stimulus to over come the recession may work in the short term but it have its own limits and no country can grow at the rate 10% for ever.

There is also a pre-planned leadership change in China in 2012. If this incident is a litmus test of the coming leader ship then we can anticipate a lot more fire works. A sustained economic growth may act as a complimentary for democracy in short term but it will not offer any long term guarantee.

Instead of forcing other nations to boycott the Nobel peace Prize ceremony, by putting the bilateral relation in between - its high time for Chinese leadership to sit down and think about the future to draw a growth path for Middle Kingdom which includes - human rights and Democracy. We can only hope that this will happen.

Sajeev.